February flyers

Tips for IDing February bees:

The arrival of the male Hairy-Footed Flower Bee by the end of the month is quite an event as he heralds the stirrings of spring. Although he’s a solitary bee, he is often mistaken for a bumblebee because of his cute, fluffy appearance. You will already see Buff-tailed Bumblebee queens and smaller workers foraging on hellebore, crocuses and mahonia. And in a few weeks, you may even glimpse a the more ginger-coloured Tree bumblebee queen foraging on early flowering fruit trees.

You may be wondering what the Marmalade hoverfly is doing in a bee ID guide. Well, this common hoverfly is an excellent honeybee mimic. Honeybees leave their hive on mild days to forage on early nectar and pollen and many novice bee spotters could confuse this hoverfly for a honeybee. By putting its photo along the bees you may see this month, I hope it will be easier to tell them apart.

How to ID

Buff-tailed Bumblebees (Bombus terrestris):-workers and queens

These plump, golden-striped bumblebees with a thick winter coat are the ones you’re most likely to see foraging now. If you live in an mild area of the UK where the Buff-tailed bumblebees are now acitve year-round, it is the workers of the winter-active colonies you will most likely see now foraging and collecting blobs of mahonia’s orange pollen in the baskets on their hind legs. (This winter activity was first recognised in the late 1990s when Buff-tailed bumblebee workers where observed in various sites. It’s believed that some summer queens set up nests in October – instead of hibernating until spring- and produced workers in November to take advantage of milder winters and the abundance of food provided by winter-flowering heathers, honeysuckles, and especially mahonia – a prickly shrub, widely planted in car parks and public green spaces, that produces copious amounts of nectar and pollen in winter.) If you live further north where Buff-tailed bumblebee colonies still die in winter, leaving only the queens to hibernate, it is these larger (up to 24mm) queens who you may see venturing out to forage this month. They will probably be flying close to the ground getting vital nectar and pollen from snowdrops, winter aconites and crocuses, and searching for a suitable nesting site, perhaps a used rodent hole, or a crack in a pavement. Although they are called Buff-tailed bumblebees, in reality only the queen has a clearly buff-coloured bottom, the workers and males have whiter bottoms.

Tree Bumblebee (Bombus Hypnorum) – queen

The queens can measure up to 20mm and are early flyers usually in March, but sometimes in late February. She has the same markings as her smaller workers and males (which you’ll see later in the spring/summer) – tawny thoraxes, black abdomens and white tails. These bees are particularly drawn to downward hanging bell-shaped flowers. At this time of the year that’s likely to be early comfrey and winter heathers.She also likes early blossoming fruit trees like Almond and Cjerry ‘Okame’ and willows. As well as foraging, the queen will be on a mission to find a nest. As their name suggests, holes in trees are traditional nesting sites. Alternative locations for nest sites includes the eaves of a building, loft insulation, compost heaps and bird boxes, so look out for her investigating walls, fences or blue tit bird boxes. Tree bumblebees have only been in the UK since 2001. They were first recorded in Wiltshire. They are thought to have come over from mainland Europe and have successfully spread right across the UK. Now they seem to be more abundant the further north you go in the British Isles.

Hairy-Footed Flower Bee (Anthophora plumipes) – male

Male hairy-footed flower bees are the first solitary bee of the year to emerge. They display a distinctive hovering and darting flight, have a long proboscis (tongue) that is often outstretched, and buzz loudly making them easy to spot. You will often see a few of them chasing each other in a patch of lungwort or comfrey flowers from late February to April. But far from being friends, they are arch rivals patrolling a patch of flowers they want all to themselves to woo and mate with females (which appear next month).

Solitary bees nest alone, not in large colonies with a queen, workers and drones like bumblebees and honeybees. Despite their solitary nature, solitary bees often live next door to each other in large aggregations and hang out in big groups looking as if they are playing with their mates.

The 14mm brown-coloured Hairy-footed flower bee males come out a few weeks ahead of the slightly bigger velvety-black females. Their thick coats enable them to withstand the cold, but the males need to build up their energy by drinking lots of nectar from early-flowering tubular-shaped flowers. Their favourites are lungwort (Pulmonaria) , dead-nettles (Lamium album) and early flowering comfrey (Symphytum iberian). So plant these, or find a patch, and you will see the male Hairy-footed flower bees with their long proboscis outstretched ready to reach deep into the base of each flower for a nectar hit.

If you can find their nesting site, which are often in the mortar in between bricks in old walls that need repointing, or old cob walls, or even in crumbling fireplace walls, then you will see and hear the males darting noisily around, and in and out the holes hoping for a female to emerge. As old walls get repointed, or replaced by newer buildings, Hairy-footed flower bees lose their nest sites. You could try to make cob bricks where they may nest instead (see below).

What’s in a name? As for their delightful name, Hairy-footed flower bees do indeed have hind legs that are covered with feathery hairs right down to their tiny feet.

There are some 550 species of Flower Bees worldwide. The Genus Anthophora is made up of 2 Greek words – Anthos means flower and phora means to carry or bear, so flower bearing, which makes sense as they carry pollen and nectar from flowers. The species most common is the UK is plumipes – again 2 Greek works. Pluma is feather or plume, and pes is foot. So feather-footed. Apparently, the males use their feathery legs to caress the female during mating!!

We will meet other Flower bees later in the year, but they are much smaller and zippier, so harder to spot.

There are a few other solitary bee males that emerge this month but they are much scarcer so I’ve not included them in the Bees to See in February ID guide. However, if you’d like to know more, they include Clark’s Mining Bee (Andrena clarkella) and the Small Sallow Mining Bee (Andrena praecox) and Large Sallow Mining Bee (Andrena apicata). For more information read my blog here.

Honeybees (Apis millefera):

Managed honeybee colonies stay alive at this time of year by keeping warm in their hive and eating the honey they spent all summer making and storing for their winter food. On milder, sunny days or even cold, bright days when the sun has warmed up the hive, some worker bees will leave the colony to forage for winter-flowering shrubs nearby, or just to go to the toilet (they don’t do this in the hive). They are so much slimmer and smoother than bumblebees that there is little chance of confusing the two. But you could mistake them for the hoverfly below that mimics a honeybee.

Marmalade hoverfly (Episyrphus balteatus) – They are often seen hovering around flowers and will often be mistaken for wasps or bees as they are a similar size to a honeybee worker or a common wasp. But if you look closely they are quite different. They have much larger eyes than bees and their abdomen is dark yellow and has black stripes across it, with thinner stripes, that resemble a moustache, below them. But I find the two easiest ways to tell them apart from a bee, is 1) they have spindly legs and don’t collect pollen on them 2) a hoverfly will stay still on a flower or a leaf for much, much longer than a bee with its wings held out wide (as in the photo above), whereas bees tend to tuck their wings back and they never stay still for that long, otherwise I’d have much fewer blurry photos of them!

What is the point of hoverflies? Adult Marmalade hoverflies are good pollinators before they inadvertedly help to transport pollen between plants when they feed on flower’s nectar. They don’t collect the pollen because their larvae are carniverous. The larvae of this species help to control aphid populations. More details here

How to help bees in February:

Plant a tree now, or sponsor a street tree. Next month it will be too late to plant a tree in the ground as they will no longer be dormant. Some trees are better for bees than others, because they produce more nectar and pollen, or they supply it early in the spring, or in late autumn when little else is flowering. What bees really need are trees that blossom sequentially producing a bee banquet throughout the year. Check our trees for bees guide. If you plant a Himalayan cherry (Prunus rufa) or a Tibetan cherry (Prunus serrula) you’ll not only have great blossom for bees in spring (as long as you plant single flowered varieties, not double-headed ones), but also fantastic rich coppery, peeling bark in the winter.
Underplant your tree with rich-coloured hellebores whose large, bowl-shaped flowers are blooming now and Elephant’s ears (Bergenia) whose tall spikes will be visited by bees from next month.
Lungwort (Pulmonaria), White dead-nettles (Lamium album) and Iberian comfrey (Symphytum ibericum), which can flower as early as March, will attract Hairy-footed flower bees to your garden. Plant in large clumps in sun, or semi-shade.
Buy and plant bulbs ‘in the green’ You can buy bee-friendly bulbs now ‘in the green’, which means you plant them while the bulbs are in growth, rather than dormant (as they were in the autumn). Snowdrops, winter aconites and crocuses will feed bees now and grape hyacinths next month. English bluebells and small, yellow wild tulips (Tulipa sylvestris) will flower in April along with wild garlic and fritillaries.
Plant early spring-flowering shrubs, such as Winter Daphne (Daphne odora) or Daphne bholua ‘Jacqueline Postill’ or Heathers (Erica carnea), which are perfect for a rockery or small flower bed with acidic, ericaceous soil. Winter flowering specimens, include white ‘Winter Snow’ (Erica carnea f. alba ), or ‘Winter rubin’ (Erica carnea ‘Winter Rubin’) for a splattering of pink. Although Rosemary usually flowers from April, with milder winters I’ve seen it flowering as early as January right through until summer. It’s also one of the most drought-tolerant plants I’ve come across and highly attractive to many different species of bee – mason, bumble, mining, and honey bees – so I’d recommend it to any bee-friendly gardener. See more shrubs here.
As it gets nearer to spring there is the temptation to tidy up the garden so it will look neat when the crocuses and daffodils appear, but leave your garden unkept for as long as possible so as not to disturb bumblebee queens who could still be hibernating in piles of old leaves, long grasses or under a shed.
It’s not too late to undertake bee hotel winter maintenance. Follow our simple step by step guide to care for these solitary bees over winter. Watch out for other insects hibernating in any empty tubes. I found queen wasps and spiders!
You could try to build bricks of cob for the Hairy-Footed Flower Bee to nest in. Cob is an ancient material used for building walls and houses. It uses a mixture of clay, sand, cricket pitch loam, straw and water. There is a great video here by Devon-based naturalist, John Walter, on how to make cob bricks. They seem to need dry, warm weather to dry, or I suppose you could bring them inside to make them at this time of year. I’m going in search of cricket pitch loam! But the mistake I made last year was not protecting the cob bricks enough from the rain, so no Hairy-Footed Flower Bee nested in them. I addressed this the following year, but still not takers. Perhaps there are enough holes in brick walls around here. There are certainly lots of Hairy-footed flower bees.
Submit sightings to iRecord of any bees you see this month.
Submit Hairy-footed flower bee sightings to BWARS so it can update its distribution atlas.

Rescue a lifeless looking bee:

Offer a lethargic or exhausted looking bumblebee an emergency energy drink of sugary water. At this time of year they can get cold and tired very quickly after leaving the nest if they don’t quickly find nectar from a flower. A mixture of two tablespoons of white sugar to one tablespoon of water should revive them, but it may take them a while to find enough energy to suck up the liquid from the spoon or saucer you provide. Be patient.

An alternative is to pick her up and take her to a flowering bush, such as Mahonia, full of nectar-rich flowers if there is one nearby. But remember, bumblebees can sting if they feel threatened so pick her up on a leaf, or in a container.

Or invest in a Bee Revival kit which comes with a tiny refillable bottle attached to key ring containing an ambrosia® bee food syrup to feed a bee in an emergency.

Never feed a bee honey. Bacterial spores of a disease that affects bee larvae can be found in honey and this brood disease is highly contagious.

You can try the same remedy for a lifeless honeybee, but they may be more inclined to sting. Again DON’T FEED THEM HONEY.

I’ve never seen a listless Hairy-footed flower bee, but if you do I’m sure they’d also appreciate a water, sugar energy drink. These bees don’t sting.

New Year bees

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Bee spotting is a rare pursuit this month as only two bee species fly at this time of year when it’s cold, dark and there’s little food around. The two species are Buff-tailed bumblebees and honeybees, and in some areas it will only be the latter. On the plus side, it’s harder to get the ID wrong!

Buff-tailed bumblebees (Bombus terrestris) – these fluffy, plump golden-striped bumblebees are the ones you’re most likely to see foraging between now and February, especially if you live in a city in the south of England. This winter activity was first recognised in the late 1990s when Buff-tailed bumblebee workers where observed in various locations. It’s believed that some summer queens set up nests in October (instead of hibernating until spring) and produced workers in November to take advantage of milder winters and the abundance of food provided by winter-flowering heathers, honeysuckles and especially widely-planted Mahonia, a tough shrub whose bright yellow flowers cheer up many an amenity shrubbery, car park, and city garden and park at this time of year and produce copious amounts of nectar and pollen.
Queen – Although called Buff-tailed bumblebees, in reality only the queen has a clearly buff coloured bottom. Measuring up to a whopping 24mm in length, she is one of our largest bumblebees and hard to miss.
Workers have whiter bottoms. It is the workers (measuring around 13-18mm) you will most likely see foraging and collecting blobs of Mahonia’s orange pollen in the pollen baskets on their hind legs.

Submit sightings – If you see a bumblebee during the winter north of Birmingham, the Bumblebee Conservation Trust would like you to submit your sighting at iRecord here. More info about winter-active bumblebees here.

How to ID honey bees:

Western honey bees (Apis millefera) – the managed honeybee colony stays alive at this time of year by keeping warm in their hive and eating their honey which they spend all summer making and storing for their winter food. But on milder, sunny days or even cold, bright days when the sun has warmed up the hive, some worker bees will leave the colony to forage for winter-flowering shrubs nearby, or just to go to the toilet (they don’t do this in the hive). They are so much slimmer and smoother than bumblebees, measuring around 14mm in length, that there is no chance of confusing the two.

How to help bees in January:

Plant a tree between now and February (when the ground’s not frozen) to feed bees in the future, or sponsor a street tree. Some trees are better for bees than others, because they produce more nectar and pollen, or they supply it early in the spring, or in late autumn when little else is flowering. What bees really need are trees that blossom sequentially producing a bee banquet throughout the year. Check our Urban Bees trees for bees guide. If you plant a Himalayan cherry (Prunus rufa) or a Tibetan cherry (Prunus serrula) you’ll not only have great blossom for bees in spring (as long as you plant single flowered varieties, not double-headed ones), but also fantastic rich coppery, peeling bark in the winter. A Vilmorini’s Rowan tree (Sorbus vilmorinii) is a small tree (4m high in 20 years) that is smothered in white bee-friendly flowers in early summer, red/purple leaves in autumn, and dusky pink berries in winter that are a favourite with Waxwing birds on the odd years when they arrive in large flocks from Scandinavia. Here’s a guide for how to plant your tree.
Underplant your tree with Christmas rose (Helleborus niger) whose large, bowl-shaped flowers are borne in loose clusters in late winter and spring, and Elephant’s ears (Bergenia), Lungwort (Pulmonaria) to attract early flying bees in spring. More flower suggestions here.
It’s still not too late to plant some bulbs in pots. Allium ‘Purple Sensation’ can still be a bee magnet in May/June if planted this month. Grape hyacinths (Muscari) should still flower in March and some tulips will also do well planted this late (although only wild tulips (Tulipa sylvestris seem to attract bees). I will plant some of these ‘in the green’ next month, which means planting them while the bulbs are in growth, rather than dormant. It’s a good way to plant bulbs in February/March if you didn’t get round to it in the autumn.
Plant winter or early spring-flowering shrubs, such as Winter Daphne (Daphne odora) or Daphne bholua ‘Jacqueline Postill’ or Heathers (Erica carnea), which are perfect for a rockery or small flower bed with acidic, ericaceous soil. Winter flowering specimens, include white ‘Winter Snow’ (Erica carnea f. alba ), or ‘Winter rubin’ (Erica carnea ‘Winter Rubin’) for a splattering of pink. Other shrub suggestions are here.
Leave your garden unkept so as not to disturb bumblebee queens who may be hibernating in piles of old leaves, long grasses or under a shed.
It’s not too late to undertake bee hotel winter maintenance. Follow our simple step by step guide to care for these solitary bees over winter. Watch out for other insects hibernating in any empty tubes. I found queen wasps and spiders!
Install a bird box that’s suitable for small birds like blue tits, with a 25mm diameter entrance hole, as it may prove to be the perfect nesting sites for Tree bumblebees (Bombus hypernorum) when the chicks have fledged in late spring. The bees will vacant by autumn, leaving the box empty for birds to use next year.
Order seeds from seed catalogues to be ready to sow in spring. Chiltern Seeds have a good selection of bee-friendly flower seeds to chose from, and growing advice, but check which ones are likely to flower in the first season (annuals), and those that will flower in the second season (perennials). I’m not patient enough to grow seeds, so I prefer to buy plug plants in the spring and grow them on in pots.

Rescue a lifeless looking bee:

Offer a lethargic or exhausted looking Buff-tailed bumblebee an emergency energy drink of sugary water. At this time of year they can get cold and tired very quickly after leaving the nest if they don’t quickly find nectar from a flower. A mixture of two tablespoons of white sugar to one tablespoon of water should revive them, but it may take them a while to find enough energy to suck up the liquid from the spoon or saucer you provide. If you carry a Bee Revive kit on a keyring, you can present a distressed bee with the vial of ambrosia at all times. Be patient. An alternative is to pick her up and take her to a flowering bush, such as Mahonia, full of nectar-rich flowers if there is one nearby. But remember, bumblebees can sting if they feel threatened so pick her up on a leaf, or in a container. Never feed a bee honey. Bacterial spores of a disease that affects bee larvae can be found in honey and this brood disease is highly contagious.

You can try the same remedy for a lifeless honeybee, but they may be more inclined to sting. Again DON’T FEED THEM HONEY.

For information on IDing and helping bees at other times of the year see my Bees to See in November blog here Bees to See in October blog here, Bees to See in September blog here, Bees to See in August blog here, Bees to See in July blog here, Bees to See in June blog here, Bees to See in May blog here and Bees to See in April blog here, Bees to See in March blog here.This entry was posted in All blogs and tagged bees to see in January, bumblebees on January 8, 2023 by alison. Edit

Bees of 2025

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I’m always bemoaning my lack of good bee photos – the bees that got away before I got my phone out, the moving bees that made my photo blurry, the bees that I just couldn’t get in focus. But when I was looking back through my photos of 2025, I realised that I, or Brian, had captured a few species pretty well. So here they are: a bee for each month and the flower they are foraging on.

The black fuzzy female Hairy-footed flower bee (Anthophora plumipes) is foraging on Tree germander (Teucrium fruticans) on the 5th floor of a hotel terrace in central London in March.
The male Red mason bee (Osmia bicornis) with long antenae is on the apple tree in our garden in east London in April.
The Orange-tailed mining bee (Andrena haemorrhoa) was foraging on Sea thrift (Armeria maritima) on the west coast of Scotland in May.

4. The Tree bumblebee ((Bombus hypnorum) is foraging on lavender in the garden of the Museum of the Home in east London in July. This is the only tree bumblebee I have seen in London for many years.

5. I was very excited to see lots of Red-tailed bumblebees ((B.lapidarius) foraging on Geranium Rozanne and Salvia in a Norfolk garden at the end of May, because I don’t see these bumblebees in London.

6. I do see lots of Wool carder bees (Anthidium manicatum, but I never grow tired of their antics around the Lamb’s ear (Stachys byzantina). Plant this and they will come, even on the 8th storey of an office black in the City of London in June.

7. Small scissor bee (Chelostoma campanularum) inside a bell flower/ You can see she is only around 4mm in size against the flower. This was taken in July, in central London.

8. Common furrow bee (Lasioglossum calceatum) is a little longer than the small scissor bee and has a banded black abdomen. It is forageing on this very drought-tolerant Erigeron ‘Wayne Roderick’ (Fleabane) a long-flowering perennial with daisy link flowers with yellow centres and semi-evergreen glaucus leaves. It does well on the 8th storey rooftop garden in the City of London where I saw the bee in August.

9. The same month, I captured this tiny Green furrow bee (Lasioglossum morio), on the 11th storey rooftop garden in Bloomsberry, London.

10. In September, I was in Canada and spotted some lovely bees including this bright metallic green beauty (middle) on a daisy-like flower in the back yard of where we were staying in downtown Toronto. It’s a type of sweat bee, called Agapostemon virescen, common across North America and has become the offical bee of Toronoto. More on our Toronto bee trip here.

11. Back in London, I saw lots of Common carder bees (Bombus pascuorum) foraging on late flowers in October include hebe on the 5th storey of an office block in the City where I’ve created bee-friendly planters.

12. Buff-taled bumblebees (B. terrestris) are flying all year in London. Here’s my best B. terrestris photo of the year, taken on another hebe.

Two of my favourite bee photos of the year were taken on our travels in Costa Rica (Dec 24- Feb 25). Here are just two: This Eulaema cingulata – until I visited Costa Rica I thought all orchid bees were small and metallic coloured, and only foraged on orchids. But they can also be big and fluffy like this one which is around 28mm long, and looks like a bumblebee with a long body and collects pollen in baskets on its hind legs. Its collecting pollen and nectar from Stachytarpheta frantzil, a purple flower popular with all pollinators including humming birds. Tetragonisca angustula are one of 54 species of stingless bee in Costa Rica. They live in colonies like honeybees – but only about 10,000 of them – and make wax and honey. They don’t sting, but if threatened can bite with their mandibles. Some species are more aggressive than others. Luckily these little orange bees, 4mm long, were harmless as their nest was in the wall cavity of a cabin where we were staying for a week. They made the tube entrance to the nest from resin and wax. It was fascinating to watch them building and adapting it. More on the bees of Costa Rica here.

Christmas gifts for bee lovers 2026

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I thought I’d make a list of the top 10 gifts for bee lovers. They range from £5 for a second hand book to close on £200 for the binoculars (maybe this is more of a very special birthday gift, rather than for Christmas). But more of the items in the list are between £12 – £30.

SUSTAINANCE Bee rescue kit – a perfeict stocking filler. I never leave the house without mine and have used it a couple of times to revive a cold bumblebee on a winter’s or early spring day.
BOOK Keeping the Bees: Why all Bees are at Risk and What We Can Do To Save Them, by Lawrence Packer. I know I keep banging on about this book but it’s one of the best I’ve read on wild bees, so do try to get a second hand copy whereever you can as it’s out of print in the UK.
NESTS RSPB Bird box for blue tits that could provide a home for Tree bumblebees after the chicks have fledged.
BEE HOTELS – The Urban Bees flat-pack bee hotel kit is easy to assemble, can be customised (i.e. painted) and comes with all the information you need about where to locate it, and how to clean it, to provide mason bees and leafcutter bees with a safe place to check into and lay their eggs in the spring and summer.
REFERENCE BOOK A Field Guide to the Bees of Great Britain and Ireland by Steven Falk – the definitive guide for any bee lover to have for reference.
MACRO BINOCULARS – PENTAX Binoculars Papilio Series – these are not cheap, but they allow you really observe close up any bee that stays still for long enough, without having to try to catch it in a net and pop it into a glass tube, which I’ve never got the hang of.
BEE T-SHIRT – I’m always on the lookout for bee t-shirts for the summer. Surprisingly, RSPCA seems to have the most interesting bumblebee t-shirt and in nice colours too. Others worth looking at are Sussex Wildlife Trust , the Wildlife Trusts, whose hoodies and long-sleeve tops look good, and of course, Bumblebee Conservation Trust. I’ve not had much luck finding any solitary bee t-shirts. Hopefully, by the summer….
GARDENING FOR BEE BOOK My favourite are Beds & Borders The Mix and Match Guide to Beautiful Planting and Gardening for Butterflies, Bees and other beneficial insects . They can only be bought second-hand, but are well worth having to help create a beautiful bee-friendly garden.
CHILDREN’S BEE BOOK – Moira and the Magnificent Bee Beds is my favourite because it’s written and illustrated in a hugely entertaining way by the lovely Nan Eshelby, and it’s about a solitary Red Mason Bee.

10.BEE Calendar – I’m afraid I can’t find any bee calendars that aren’t 100% focused on honeybees!!! So I’d suggest that if you’ve got an old copy of the Urban Bees calendar, attach a plain 2026 calender under Penny Metal’s gorgeous bee photos to take you through the bee year.

11. GIFT BEE BOOK – I do think the publishers did a good job of making our The Good Bee book into a lovey gift, whether hardback or paperback. You can get a signed copy if you buy it direct from us. Email alison@urbanbees.co.uk

December bees – only two species to spot

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Buff-tailed bumblebee worker Honeybee with pollen on her back legs

Tips for IDing December bumblebees:

It’s not that you won’t see bees this month, but only two species fly in the winter. And only on mild, dry days, or when it’s bright and sunny (even sometimes when there is snow on the ground!)

Given there are only two winter fliers, bee identification is a lot less interesting than in spring and summer, but it is much easier. You are either observing a wild, Buff-tailed bumblebee or a managed honeybee, and in some parts of the UK it will only be the latter as the Buff-tailed bumblebees queens are hibernating, and not producing any workers.

Buff-tailed bumblebees (Bombus terrestris) – until fairly recently these fluffy, golden-striped bumblebees hibernated like all other 23 bumblebee species in the UK. But in the late 1990s, they where observed foraging in various sites over winter. It’s believed that some summer queens set up nests in October (instead of hibernating until spring) and produce workers in November to take advantage of milder winters and the abundance of food provided by winter-flowering heathers, honeysuckles and especially widely-planted Mahonia. This tough shrub has bright yellow flowers that cheer up many an amenity shrubbery, car park, and city garden and park at this time of year, and produce copious amounts of nectar and pollen. You’re most likely see the workers foraging on it between now and February, especially if you live in a city in the south of England. They will collect blobs of its orange pollen in the baskets on their hind legs to take back to the nest to feed the brood.

How to ID honey bees:

Western honey bees (Apis millefera) – the managed honeybee colony stays alive at this time of year by keeping warm in their hive and eating the honey which they spend all summer making and storing to eat in the winter. On milder, sunny days or even cold, bright days when the sun has warmed up the hive, some worker bees will leave the colony to forage for winter-flowering shrubs near by, or just to go to the toilet (they don’t do this in the hive). That’s when you may see them. They are so much slimmer and smoother than bumblebees that there is no chance of confusing the two.

How to help bees in December:

Plant a tree in your garden between now and February to feed bees in the future, or sponsor a street tree, or join a local tree planting group to plant trees in parks and community orchards. Some trees are better for bees than others, because they produce more nectar and pollen, or they supply it early in the spring, or in late autumn when little else is flowering. What bees really need are trees that blossom sequentially producing a bee banquet throughout the year. Check the Urban Bees’ Trees for Bees guide. If you plant a Himalayan cherry (Prunus rufa) or a Tibetan cherry (Prunus serrula) you’ll not only have great blossom for bees in spring (as long as you plant single flowered varieties, not double-headed ones), but also fantastic rich coppery, peeling bark in the winter.
Plant a holly tree/bush – this will not only give you bright red berries to brighten up the garden at this time of year and feed birds, it will also produce small white flowers for bees in early summer. Note: Only female trees form fruit and they need to be planted near to a male for the bees to transfer the pollen from the male to the female to fertilise them. However the male holly could be in a neighbour’s garden. For a sure bet for berries, try self-fertile ‘J C van Tol’ which also attracts bees to its flowers.
Underplant your tree with Christmas rose (Helleborus niger) whose large, bowl-shaped flowers are borne in loose clusters in late winter and spring, and Elephant’s ears (Bergenia), Lungwort (Pulmonaria) to attract early flying bees next spring.
If the ground’s not yet frozen, get a few more spring bulbs into the ground. Ones that provide an early source of nectar and pollen in February/March are particularly useful such as Crocus ‘Ruby Giant’ and Iris histrioides ‘George’.
Leave your garden unkept so as not to disturb queens of bumblebee species that are hibernating at this time of year, such as Common carder bees (Bombus pascuorum) and Early bumblebees (Bombus pratorum) in piles of old leaves, long grasses or under a shed.
It’s not too late to undertake bee hotel winter maintenance. Follow our simple step by step guide to care for these solitary bees over winter. Watch out for other insects hibernating in any empty tubes. I found queen wasps and spiders!
Offer a lethargic or exhausted Buff-tailed bumblebee an emergency energy drink of sugary water. At this time of year they can get cold and exhausted very quickly after leaving the nest if they don’t quickly find nectar from a flower. A mixture of two tablespoons of white sugar to one tablespoon of water should revive them, but it may take them a while to find enough energy to suck up the liquid from the spoon or saucer you provide. Be patient. One way to ensure you are always prepared to revive a bee is by carrying a Bee Revival Kit with you at all times. It’s a vial filled with an ambrosia syrup that attaches to a key ring.
An alternative is to pick a bee up and take her to a flowering bush, such as Mahonia, full of nectar-rich flowers if there is one nearby. But remember, bumblebees can sting if they feel threatened so pick her up on a leaf, or in a container.
Never feed a bee honey, not even to a honeybee. It sounds counterintuitive, but the bacterial spores of a disease that affects bee larvae can be found in honey and this brood disease is highly contagious.

Bird boxes for bees too!

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We’ve been installing RSPB bird boxes for birds and bees.

Did you know that bird boxes like these ones pictured above for Blue Tits and Great Tits can also provide a nest for Tree bumblebees later in the spring after the chicks have fledged. Tree bumblebees (Bombus hypnorum) like to nest high up, unlike other bumblebee species which nest below ground in old rodent holes, or just above ground in long grass.

Photo credit: reddishpink media

The Tree bumblebee queen creates a colony during the late spring/early summer. These colonies can be quite noisy but are pretty harmless if you leave them alone. The queen and her colony vacate the bird box in late summer so birds can use it again.

Although birds don’t start nesting until February, they may be looking for a suitable location now. So it’s the perfect time to put up a box. These boxes need to be 2-4 m off the ground and facing north or east.

I love birds and bees, so this is a win,win!!!

It’s just one of the way to help bees this month. More tips for identifying and helping bees in winter here.

Click here to watch a video about Tree bumblebees called Ginger Arrows by reddishpink media

Autumn planting for bees

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Here’s a list of plants and bulbs that Urban Bees has planted on part of a King’s College London university campus this autumn to feed bees in spring. We wanted to create a spring garden for bees because spring is a vital time of year for bumblebees to collect enough nectar to sustain themselves and enough pollen to build up their colonies, and for spring-flying solitary bees to successfuly breed and nest.

There are already many shrubs planted, so we wanted to create spring colour and ground cover that feeds bees.

Name of plant

Crocus tommasinianus (Flowers from Feb-March)
Ipheion ‘Wisley Blue’ (Feb-March)
Scilla siberica (March – April)
Bergenia Harzkristall (March – April)
Erysimum ‘Tricolour’ (March – July)
Muscari ( April – May)
Narcissus ‘Pheasant’s Eye (April – May)
Vinca Minor ‘Atropurpura’ (April – Oct)
Myosotis ‘Myomark’ (April– May)
Primula vulgaris (April – May)
Symphytum ‘Hidcote Blue’ (April – May)
Chionodoxa ‘Violet Beauty’ (April – May)
Geranium Riversleaianum (May – Oct)

Bulbs planted: Clockwise from top: Chionodoxa ‘Violet Beaut’ Crocus tommasinianus, Muscari armeniacum, Narcissus ‘Pheasant’s Eye’, Ipheion ‘Wisley Blue’.

Perennials planted: Clockwise from top: Bergenia Harzkristall, Erysimum ‘Tricolour’, Geranium Riversleaianum ‘Russell Pritchard’; Primula vulgaris, Symphytum ‘Hidcote Blue’; Vica minor ‘Atropurpura’

Late autumn bees

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Bumblebee colonies have for the most part finished, with a few new queens still stocking up on nectar before they hunker down for their winter diapause. The exception are the Buff-tailed bumblebees, which in many parts of the country can now be seen flying throughout the winter. In contrast, we will have to wait until next spring for a new generation of adult solitary bees to emerge. This year’s solitary bees have ended their life cycle save for a few remaining Ivy bees. Managed honeybees will forage on mild days. With so few bee species to choose from, it should at least be easier to identify the ones you do see!

Tips for IDing November bumblebees:

Buff-tailed bumblebees (Bombus terrestris) – these large, fluffy, golden-striped bumblebees are active throughout the winter now in many parts of the UK, especially in cities even as far as Edinburgh and Dundee. The reason that late summer queens have a brood during winter now in many areas, rather than entering a winter diapause (hibernation-like state), is twofold: it is warm enough for the bees to fly in winter, and as importantly there is plenty for them to eat. Winter-flowering shrubs such a Mahonia and Viburnum tinus in our parks, gardens and municipal landscaping provides winter nectar and pollen. As a result, you’ll see queens, workers and males flying throughout the year. The queens are easily recognisable from their huge size (up to 24mm) and distinctive buff coloured bottom. You often hear their loud buzz before you see them. The workers are smaller (16mm) and have a white tail. Both of these castes are female. The 14mm males look similar to the workers. How you can tell them apart is from the brightly-coloured blobs of pollen, which only the females collect on their hind legs to take back to the nest. In more rural areas of northern England and Scotland, where the Buff-tailed bumblebees aren’t yet active over winter, you may still see a queen Buff-tailed bumblebee at this time of year stocking up on nectar and looking for a dry, secure place to spend her winter diapause, from which she will emerge in early spring.
Common carder bees (Bombus pascuorum) – if you see a 15mm fluffy brown bee on flowering salvias or Fuchsia at this time of year, chances are they will be the new queens having a final nectar feast before bedding down somewhere snug for the winter months, such as a pile of old leaves, long grass, or under the garden shed.
Tree bumblebee (Bombus hypnorum) – they have a gingery thorax like a Common carder bees, but the wihite bottom tells them apart.If you’re very lucky at this time of year you may see a queen out foraging for nectar before she hunkers down for the winter. These bees have spread across the British isles since they arrived from the continent in Wiltshire in 2001. Nowadays they seem more common in cooler parts of the UK. I’ve not seen one in my London garden for a decade now. If you put up a bird box for Blue tits in your garden, the tree bumblebees may make a nest in it after the chicks have fledged next spring. More information here

How to ID November solitary bees:

Ivy bees (Colletes hederae) –there’s a very slim chance you may see an Ivy bee early this month if ivy is still flowering where you live. But hurry, their short life cycle is nearly over. Once the adult female bees have laid all their eggs, and provisioned each one with pollen from the ivy flowers, their six to eight week life cycle is complete. To spot an Ivy bee, look for an insect with a fluffy ginger pile on top of its thorax (though it may be a duller brown by now) feeding on the last of the tiny, white ivy flowers. It’s the fluffy thorax that sets the 13mm Ivy bee apart from honey bees and hoverflies (See our Is it a bee or a hoverfly? guide.)

How to ID honey bees:

Western honey bees (Apis millefera) – we’ve included these managed bees this month because you are likely to see them foraging for nectar on late-flowering blooms, such as Geranium ‘Rozanne’ , Tickseed, Fuschia and Salvia – often nectar robbing (making a hole in the base of a deep flower to get the nectar because their short proboscis (tongue) can’t reach inside the flower. This means the flower doesn’t get pollinated). The honeybees take the nectar back to their hive to turn into the last stores of honey, which is their winter food. They may also be foraging on the last ivy flowers. They are around 10mm long with a slim, tapered gold and brown stripy body. They can be easily confused with other stripy insects, such as Ivy bees and the Marmalade hoverfly.

Bee mimic

Marmalade Hoverfly (Episyrphus balteatus) – is one of our most common hoverflies. It gets its common name from its thick orange markings which make it look like a stinging insect (which it isn’t) in the hope that this will deter potential predetors. The way to tell it apart from a bee is its big eyes, spindly legs which do not have pollen baskets, and it only has two wings (not four like a bee). It is also less hairy. It’s active throughout much of the winter when most bees aren’t flying . Hoverflies are among our most important pollinators. Like wasps, they also eat aphids so play an important role in pest control. More details here.

How to help bees in November:

Cosmos, Penstemon, Fuchsia, salvias, dahlias, tickseed and Geranium ‘Rozanne’ are all still flowering for late-flying bees, along with the shrub Fatsia japonica, so try to have some in your garden or in pots or planters.
Since most bee species don’t fly in the colder months, now’s the time to think ahead to next spring when a new generation of bees start emerging. Make you garden, roof terrace, patio or other outside space a smorgasbord of bee-friendly spring bulbs. If you only do one thing, plant those crocus bulbs you’ve been meaning to before the ground gets too hard. Plant them under trees, in lawns and hanging baskets, and pots, as well as flower beds. They will give the early flying bumblebee queens food to fuel their flight. Here are the best spring bulbs for bees.
For bee-friendly November window boxes, Cosmos and Mexican fleabane (Erigeron karvinskianus), are still blooming. I’ve just brought some magnificent magenta-coloured Cyclamen to brighten up my window box for autumn and feed passing bees and I have added crocus bulbs for a colourful display in early spring that will feed the bees.
The Strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo) feeds bees in November and it’s nectar and pollen contains medicinal properties for bumblebees, so try to grow one in your garden or a even a large pot. If you’d like a spring or summer flowering tree instead, now is the perfect month to decide which tree you could add to your garden to provide bee food next year. If you order it now, you can plant a tree, while trees are dormant during winter. Also, speak to your council tree officer about how they could be planting more bee-friendly trees in local streets and parks. Trees can provide an abundant source of food at times of year when bees may be going hungry like early spring and late summer. For advice on which tree to plant see our Trees for Bees guide. Some bee-friendly trees grow very well in pots, including small fruit trees such as crab apples. My favourite to feed the Red mason bees is Malus sylvestris ‘Evereste’.
If you live in a milder part of the UK, it’s worth planting winter-flowers shrubs, such as Mahonia, Verburnum tinus and Sarcococca, and perennials, such a Hellebores, to feed Buff-tailed bumblebees who fly all year round. More information on flowers here and shrubs here.
Have you ever thought of growing a wildlife-friendly hedge? Well this month is the time to get planning. Hawthorn, Blackthorn, Field Maple, Beech, Hornbeam, Purging buckthorn and Dog rose are some of plants that this RHS video suggests. It all really depends on what size garden you have, how prickly you want your hedge and how much you want it to flower for pollinators. We have a small Cotoneaster hedge in our small, urban front garden which mitigates pollution, has white flowers that feed bees in the summer, and berries for the blackbirds in winter. Even privet hedges are good for pollinators if they are allowed to flower. Bare-root hedges can be planted from late autumn into winter.
Divide bee-friendly perennials that have become overcrowded. Find another place for them in the garden or give them away to friends and neighbours to make their gardens more bee-friendly.
Seeds to grow under glass this month including wild cornflower, cowslip, poppies and Pink Hawk’s Beard (Crepis rubra) – a new hardy annual I’ve just come across which looks a bit like a pink dandelion . Yellow rattle can be grown outdoors and is useful if you are trying to convert part of your lawn into a wild flower meadow as it supresses the grasses and will allow the wild flowers to grow.
It’s tempting to give your garden a thorough tidy at this time of year after the autumn leaves have fallen. But it’s best to leave your garden a bit messy: piles of leaves and bits of old, rotting wood as queen bumblebees and other insects may find them perfect winter habitat. And there could be solitary bee cocoons in hollow plant stems, so leave them too.
Clean out your bee hotels and bee boxes for solitary bees and store the bee cocoons in a dry, cool place over winter. Read here for more information on bee hotel winter management.
If you see a motionless bumblebee at this time of year, either try and move here to a flower when she can suck up some nectar to give her energy, or you could give her a sugar/water drink, but NEVER give her honey. It has bacteria that is bad for bumblebees.

There will be plenty more jobs we can do over the winter months to help bees thrive next spring. So, look out for future posts.

For information on IDing and helping bees earlier in the year see my Bees to See in October blog here, Bees to See in September blog here, Bees to See in August blog here, Bees to See in July blog here, Bees to See in June blog here, Bees to See in May blog here and Bees to See in April blog here, Bees to See in March blog here.

Toronto bee trip

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From L-R Agapostemon virescens; Giant Patiagonian bumblebee (Bombus dhalbomii) pinned; Eastern Carpenter bee (Xylocopa virginica)

We managed to weave bees into our family trip to Toronto. We observed metallic green and large, shiny black bees in our relative’s backyard, and visited university bee labs where we saw and learned a lot more.

First stop was a coffee with professor Nigel Raine at Guelph University (just outside Toronto). I know Nigel from when he was researching bumblebee behaviour at Royal Holloway in London 15 years ago. He does a lot more than that now, but some recent research coming out of his lab has discovered (by accident) bumblebee queens’ resilience to flooding. Read it here.

A few days later we were at University of Toronto Scarborough, the campus to the east of the city, to meet Scott MacIvor (above) an assistant professor who specialises in urban ecology. Working with with a range of disciplines including designers, engineers and city planners his lab investigates patterns in biodiversity (especially bees), biological invasion and ecological processes in cities to better connect people to nature, support urban conservation priorities and sustain ecosystem service delivery. There are lots of overlapping interests in the work we do at Urban Bees to try to improve cities for bees.

He has created a bee hotel for cavity-nesting bees using paper straws with different diameter holes mounted on a clay mould and encased in a protective plastic cover. He is concerned about the mail order business in mason bee cocoons which he fears will spread disease and parasites.

His research has found that pollinator diversity and abundance decreases on a green roof the taller a building. However surveys by Pollinating London Together seem to show otherwise in the City of London where green roofs planted with diverse, sequential blooming flowers have been found to outperform ground level gardens which are often shaded by the tall buildings surrounding them and therefore not so attractive to foraging pollinators, especially bees.

Scott studied under Laurence Packer, one of the leading professors of melittology (study of bees) in the world. I’ve read some of the Laurence’s books and had taken Bees of the World with me to be signed. We arranged to meet him in his world famous Packer Lab at York University in Toronto where he has one of the biggest bee collections.

He showed us the bee he discovered in the arid desert in northern Chile in 2012. (Laurence is pointing to the location on the map above). It is the only bee of its kind ever found. It’s called Xenofidelia colorada (pictured above right) and is a member of the Fideliinae family, a subfamily of Megachilidae, which includes leafcutter bees.

He he also showed us a male orchid bee, Euglossa intersecta, (above left) with an exceptionally long proboscis allowing it to access nectar deep in the corollas of certain flowers including some deep-throated orchids. They also collect scent from the flower using special brushes on their front legs. They store the scent in their hind legs. This ‘perfume’ is used to attract a female.

Most exciting for me, I got to see a Giant Patagonian bumblebee (Bombus dahlbombii), know as the flying mouse because of the size of the queen – up to 4cm – and her fluffy, brown coat. She is the biggest bumblebee in the world and I wrote and article a few years ago about her future is threatened by the trade in European bumblebees to pollinate polytunnel crops in Chile and Argentina.

We also saw one of the smallest bees in the world, Pedita minima (2 photos above), – a solitary bee from south west USA desert which measures just less than 2mm – which we mention in A Good Bee.

It was a real treat to hang out with Laurence in his lab for a couple of hours hearing his stories and looking at some of his huge collection of bees. He also gave us a couple of books including Keeping the Bees , all about his adventures tracking down wild bees around the world.

We also observed the Common Eastern bumblebee (Bombus impatiens) throughout Toronto, where most of the front gardens (which are actually owned by the council) were full of flowers, especially Golden rod and Michaelmas daisies at this time of year. And #NoMowMay had been adopted. Even in parks, the planting was incredibly similar to the UK, with their native Rudbeckia and Golden Rod (Soligado canadensis) proving late forage, along with Sedum. Golden Rod and Sumac trees (Rhus typhina), which I’d only seen in ornamental planting, grow wild here along railway lines – like Buddleia in the UK – and the ravines that cross the city.

The green roofs we visited seemed less advance than the UK. The 3rd floor of City Hall, know as the Podium, (left) has been planted with trays of mainly sedum, which were grown off-site and then installed on the rooftop. When we visited in September, asters were flowering but not much else. Canada geese were feeding on some seeds. I couldn’t see what they were. Much more impressive was the 2,000 sq ft Carrot Common garden, (right) on top of a health food shop, showcasing urban agriculture with a huge allotment, a large area that seemed to be full of pollinator-friendly flowers, and areas for people to gather and learn, with planting on top of the benches too.

I was blown away by the city’s ravine system which gives it a feeling of being a city built within a huge forest. Within one of those ravines was the Evergreen Brickworks built on the site of the former Don Valley Brick Works and quarry, with the land around it being managed for wildlife with ponds and grazing by goats.

And the new 40 hectre Biidaasige park – created by renaturalising the Don river to create a floodplain and parks for wildlife and people as part of the city’s flood recovery, to improve water quality and redirect the sewage system. I love the translation of the name of the park “sunlight shining towards us”. It seemed very appropriate when we took the photo above of the sun starting to set in the west. We were lucky enough to get a cycle tour of this new area of the city (reminiscent of the Olympic Park on the Lea Valley in east London) by associate director of the Toronto and Region Conservation Authority, Steve Heuchert (whose sister is a good friend on ours in London). Here’s an interesting article in the Guardian about the huge project a few years ago.

And finally, I have to mention the Blue Jays and the Monarch butterflies. The former is a noisy bird, like our Magpies, but more elusive (hence the not very good photo), and the name of its baseball team. The latter is the butterfly that famously migrates nearly 3,000 miles from the northern United States and southern Canada (where they breed) all the way down to central Mexico (where they overwinter). And we saw a tiny bit of this in action, when we observed Monarch’s on the beach at Lake Erie and on the ornamental plants on the Toronto islands. It was quite a magical experience to see a group (collective noun is kaleidoscope) of butterflies in the wild – Monarchs and Red Admirals. I’ve only experienced it before in an enclosed butterfly house.

October 2025 bees and mimics

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The female ivy bees are out. If you’ve not seen one yet, find a flowering ivy bush in the autumnal sunshine. This is where you’re likely to see them feeding on the tiny, white, pin cushion-like flowers for nectar and pollen, alongside slightly bigger honeybees (14mm) that they can easily be confused with. Just to make it harder to ID them, they will be joined by heaps of stripy hoverflies. The ID tips below are designed to help you tell apart an ivy bee from a honeybee. And our Is it a bee or a hoverfly? guide should help distinguish both from their hoverfly mimics – three are featured in the chart above.

How to ID ivy bees:

Ivy bees (Colletes hederae) – males are (8-9mm) – a bit smaller than a honeybee – and female ivy bees are 11-13mm – a bit larger. But the best way to tell them apart is that the ivy bees have a gingery pile on their thorax and much more segmented shiny bands on their abdomen. Honeybees are social bees living in large colonies so you will likely see more honeybees on ivy if there are hives nearby. Ivy bees are solitary (although they can nest next door to each other in large aggregations) , so you may only see a few. It can take a while before you can distinguish them, but it’s worth being patient.

Ten reasons why ivy mining bees are so special:

They are the last solitary bee to emerge in the year.
They were only described as a separate species in 1993 in Germany. According to bee expert, Ted Benton, the lateness of this discovery may in part be explained by their similarity to two other late-flying close relatives: Heather bees (Colletes succinctus) and Sea Aster bees (Colletes halophilus).
They were first discovered in England just over 20 years ago, in an ivy bush in Dorset in 2001.
Since they were first spotted on these shores they have spread across the UK and were recorded in Scotland in 2021. You can contribute to a mapping project to show how widespread they now are.
There is a real thrill when you see one for the first time, because it means you have learned to distinguish its features (gingery pile on its thorax and segmented shiny bands on its abdomen) from the honeybee.
They only fly for around six weeks, when the ivy is flowering, so they seem more special than bees that fly all summer.
They nest in huge aggregations of thousands of bees, making burrows in loose soil and sandy banks. It’s an amazing sight watching them emerge in late August/early September. I’ve never seen it, but I hope to create a sand bank somewhere that may become a nesting site. This video gives a flavour.
Their symbiotic relationship with ivy – emerging to feed on its nectar and pollen and pollinating it at the same time – really demonstrates the connection between bees and flowering plants. This relationship has evolved over 100 million years.
Watching them at work helps to connect us with nature on our doorstep. We don’t need to visit the ‘countryside’, or far flung places, to see nature in action.
They are also called plasterer bees, because like all bees with the Latin name Colletes, they line the nests they create in their burrows with a cellophane-like waterproof and fungus-resistant substance that they secret. Isn’t that amazing!

How to ID other October solitary bees:

Common furrow bee (Lasioglossum calceatum) – if you see a small (8-10mm) black, shiny insect with a long body on a flower late in the summer or in autumn, chances are it will be this bee. The yellow legs in the photo above, should help, and there are some band markings on the body.

Tips for IDing October bumblebees:

Common carder bees (Bombus pascuorum) – the workers will often sport a faded ginger/brown thorax that looks more straw-coloured at this time of year. They will often be seen foraging on Helianthus ‘Lemon Queen’, Michaelmas daisies and Salvia ‘hot lips’ in my garden, alongside new, more vibrant looking queens and males stocking up on nectar before the winter. The queens are the largest (15mm) and the workers the smallest (11-13mm). Despite its English name, which derives from its behaviour of teasing out (carder is the old fashioned word for teasing out) bits of moss to cover its nest, it is a social bumblebee, hence its scientific Latin name Bombus.
Tree bumblebees (Bombus hypnorum) – I’ve really missed seeing these white-bottomed bees again this year in London. Other people too have noticed their absence. Further north you’ll likely to see them still flying. They will be vacating any bird boxes the colony has occupied over the summer. The old queen will die, leaving new queens and males to mate, then the new queens will stock up on nectar – on ivy flowers – before finding a cosy spot to spend the winter.
Buff-tailed bumblebees (Bombus terrestris) – these bumblebees with dirty golden stripes are so successful that if you live in the south of the UK you are likely to see this species flying all year. This month, the workers (13-18mm) and huge new queens (20-24mm) may be supping on ivy nectar alongside other bee species. In the south, the queen will be looking for a nest to produce a brood that lives throughout the winter. Further north, they are more likely stocking up on nectar before their dormant period and will appear early next spring to find a nest.

How to help bees in October:

There are still a few things flowering in the garden this month: Helianthus ‘Lemon Queen’, Michaelmas daisies, Chrysanthemums, Flag lilies, and annual Cosmos grown from seed for short tongued or medium tongued bees; Penstemon, Fuchsia, Salvia ‘hot lips’ and other salvias for long-tongues bees. The shrubby blue Caryopteris x clandonensis (Bluebeard) and red Perscicaria are both visited by bees, and of course, Geranium Rozanne is still flowering. But flowering ivy is by far the most valuable nectar and pollen source at this time of year, so if you have any mature, flowering ivy don’t prune it until after it’s flowered.
For bee-friendly October window boxes, try Cosmos, Mexican fleabane (Erigeron karvinskianus), and Cyclamen.
Think about which tree you could add to your garden to provide bee food, or speak to your council tree officer about planting more bee-friendly trees in streets and parks. It’s best to plant trees during the winter when they are dormant.
This month is all about planting spring bulbs to feed bees next year. Plant as many crocus bulbs as you can in window boxes, pots, hanging baskets, flower beds and lawns, as they will provide much-need early pollen and nectar for bumblebee queens when they start flying next spring. I’m also going to plant more Muscari Armeniacum (Grape hyacinth) bulbs again this autumn to feed Hairy footed-flower bees in April and May. I’m also going to try blue Scilla Siberica and Chionodoxa too, which flower earlier in March and April, Unfortunately, most daffodils and tulips don’t feed pollinators. The exceptions, I’ve heard are Narcissus ‘Poeticus‘ (Pheasant’s eye) and wild tulips (Tulipa sylvestris) which both flower from April-May.
October is a good time to divide perennials that have become overcrowded. Find another place for them in the garden or give them away to friends and neighbours to make their gardens more bee-friendly.
If planting conditions are still good this month (not too cold and wet), plant wallflowers. There are also some seeds that can be grown under glass this month including wild cornflower and cowslip. Yellow rattle can be grown outdoors and is useful if you are trying to convert part of your lawn into a wild flower meadow as it suppresses grasses to allow wild flowers to grow.
Leave parts of the garden untidy as queen bumblebees may have found a nook or cranny to spend the winter and don’t wish to be disturbed. And solitary bees may have laid eggs in plant stems.
Clean out your bee hotels and store the bee cocoons in a dry, cool place over winter. Read here for more information.

Bow Bells House Summer 2025 – lessons

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It’s been a summer of two halves on the eight floor of Bow Bells House. And one that I want t share some lessons from, as to how to manage a rooftop ‘wild’ garden for bees and other pollinators. It went from looking the best it’s ever looked in June and July, to one of the worst in August when ‘weeds’ took over and water-deprived plants set seed early leaving no flowers in bloom to feed bees. Here I take you through each month:

April

Rosemary and Halimium ‘April Sun’, an RHS awarding winning rock rose, were doing well and attracting Hairy-footed flower bees, and Scabious was feeding Red mason bees. But the sprinkler watering system wasn’t working so well as it only reaches some of the planter, plus it’s too visible.

May

Erigeron Glaucus ‘See Breeze’ was out and mobbed by honeybees, along with Red hot pokers and early salvias. We saw Early bumblebees (Bombus pratorum), Red mason bees (Osmia bicornis), Green furrow bees (Lasioglossum morio) and we created a sand mound for ground-nesting mining bees with the help of ecologist Dr Konstantinos Tsiolis of Pollinating London Together, who conducts the spring/summer pollinator surveys. We put in a new soaker hose system and because it was a dry, warm spring, we had 90 minutes of water every night. Was that too much? It only dribbles out water, and again didn’t quite reach all the plants.

June

We paid a visit on June 20 to check the irrigation, as a heatwave was forecast. The combination of good weather and irrigation had led to an explosion of colour on both roofs. Comfrey, Veronica, Lamb’s ear on the east planter and Verbascum. Rose campion, Salvia and Erigeron on the west – all blooming early. The only downside was that the sand mound was now overshadowed by plants (not good for mining bees).

Went back on June 27 for 3rd pollinator survey and both planters look the best they have ever looked. Variety of plants and colours. Furrow bees on yellow dandelion-like flowers, and Wool carder bees on Lamb’s ear, among others.

July

I was contacted by a film production company who want to film on a bee-friendly rooftop in London for a major two-part series on bees being broadcast in 2026. Because Bow Bells House was looking so spectacular and has the view of St Paul’s, I suggested they film it. After a recce on 1 July, they loved it. They came back and filmed a segment in early July, hopefully with Wool carder bees etc (I couldn’t be there the day they filmed as I was running a workshop in Manchester).

On July 25, I went back with film maker, Jonathan Goldberg, to make a short film about Urban Bees work – that will appear on our new website. The rooftop was still looking great, especially the east side with Calamint, Willowherb, Eupatorium, Rudbeckia all looking fantastic. BUT it was clear it could have done with some maintenance. Overwhelmed by the task and the heat, I decided to put that off. The only maintenance myself and Brian had done, starting, back in May was to pull up any Fleabane we saw (there was lots and lots) before it flowered and set seed, and to chop off the Red hot poker seed heads. As it turned out that was far from enough!!!!

On that day we had to wear PPE (Hard hats, hi-vis vests and boots) as everything on the roof (except the planters) is now being ripped out as part of Bow Bells House extensive refurb – and no one had told the guys not to rip out our excellent watering system just as another heatwave was forecast. Contractors, Ikon, were very apologetic, especially when I said I’d be contacting the boss, Debbie at Fabrix. She responded to my distressed immediately (on a Friday night) and said it would be sorted out. It was…

August

6 August – they reinstalled the water, taps and a timed irrigation system and attached it to our soaker hose. It didn’t appear to be on, but that was why we were visiting, to make sure it was attached Ok and to put the water back on. However, even though the roof was still looking amazing, especially the agapanthus, salvia, perovskia on the west side, there was evidence that ‘weeds’ were taking over on the east side along with the Eupatorium, which had hugely spread. This is where I mad a BIG MISTAKE – the weeds seemed to be thriving around the soaker hose pipe, so I decided we should try 2 weeks with no water and see if that reduced the ‘weeds’. However, what I forgot (schoolgirl error), was that drought-stressed plants vigorously set seed to ensure they reproduce. So I was going to be in for a shock 2 weeks later – one of which was a heatwave with not a drop of rain.

August 22 – What a difference water makes!!!! In just 2 weeks with no water, plants had gone over much quicker and set seed and there were very few flowers blooming. So no food for bees! Everything looked brown and dry, including the Erigeron and it was impossible to see lavender, teucrium and veronica which were hidden in a cloud of fluffy Eupatorium and Willowherb seeds, and dead thistles.

We delayed the fourth and final pollinator survey of the year until the watering system had gone back on for a week. Instead of a survey, I spend the afternoon ripping up Willlowherb, whose clouds of seeds went everywhere! I put the water system on for 30mins every 12 hours. And there was rain too over the next week.

August 29 – 2 full days and 25 rubble bags later full of Eupatorium, Willowherb, Thistles (ouch), grasses and deadheading plants, and there are now big gaps in the planters, but I can fill those with a trip to a garden centre for late-flowering blooms. I can now see the Rosemary again, lavender, teucrium, some of which is still flowering ( I cut the purple tail seed heads to encourage more), and the pollinators are coming back. The Erigeron is still very brown, which isn’t good for the furrow bees, bu the salvia’s recovered and is buzzing with bees when it’s not raining….

Common carder bees (Bombus pascuorum) on Teucrium ‘purple tails’ and this amazing Hummingbird hawk-moth on the salvia. There were honeybees too. However, because of the intermittent heavy showers, we delayed the final pollinator survey still further.

September

After a lot of rain and additional regular irrigation, plus new plants to provide late nectar and pollen including Agastache, Coreopsis and Campanula – and yet more weeding – the planters are better fulfilling their function to provide a diversity of year-round flowers to feed different species of bees and other pollinators in the City of London.

Konstantinos was finally able to do the last pollinator survey of the survey in between the heavy, autumnal downpours.

LESSONS LEARNED

Don’t deprive flowers of water, especially during a drought as they go to seed quicker and there’s no flowers for the bees to feed on.
Don’t put off maintenance when a garden is looking at it’s best. It’s than that you need to be maintaining it.
Don’t let certain ‘weeds’ or invasive plants take over. As well as the fleabane, I should have been pulling up Willowherb, some thistles and the grasses and more Red hot poker seedlings which have taken root all over the west planter again, like sycamore seedlings.
A low maintenance, wildlife garden, does need at least a full day of maintenance during the summer months.
When you pull up the ‘weeds’ , big gaps are left, so I need to think more about bee-friendly ground cover that will work on the east facing planter and the west facing planter to help suppress the ‘weeds’ next spring and more importantly summer.

Autumn bees

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Autumn is such an exciting month for bee spotting because it’s when ivy bees – our last solitary bee of the season – emerges. First the males, which have already been sighted in Cornwall and London, are born and collect nectar from a variety of flowers. Then later this month, and next, females will forage for nectar and pollen on tiny, white ivy flowers.

The best way to see them, is to keep an eye on any ivy bushes and when they flower observe the bees and other insects that come to feed – it’s like a watering hole for insects.

There are many other solitary bees that are still around. The small, black bees, including Common furrow bees, the more diminutive Green furrow bee, and Large-headed resin bees. Tips below for how to tell them apart.

Also, if you’re anywhere near sandy banks, look out for Pantaloon bees which are still nesting. Ivy bees also nest in sandy soil, like bunkers on golf courses, emerging in large numbers at this time of year. Remember these solitary bees are all harmless.

As for bumblebees, the small brown fluffy Common carder bees are foraging on late-flowering lavender, salvia and toadflax. And Red-tailed bumblebees and Tree bumblebees are flying – many of these bees will be large, new queens, or smaller males (which in some species look different to workers and queens). The males are seeking new queens to mate with, and the new queens, once mated, are stocking up on nectar to build up their fat reserves for when they hunker down over winter. A colony that’s produced lots of queens and males is a success story.

Tips for IDing September bumblebees:

Red-tailed bumblebees (Bombus lapidarius) – increasingly rare in London, but easily recognisable when you do get a glimpse. The males, (12-14mm) which are flying now are one of our prettiest bees with their yellow facial hair and red bottoms. The queens are much more dramatic, dressed in black with a fiery red butt. In the south, queens can produce a second colony of up to 300 bees, so it’s this second generation there are now flying. The queen is one of our biggest bumblebees: measuring 20-22mm. Workers are a smaller version of the queen (14-16mm).
Tree bumblebees (Bombus hypnorum) – again I’ve not seen these bees in London this year, but they seem to be doing well further north. If you’ve been bee spotting all summer, you may be quite adept at identifying tree bumblebees by now with their ginger thorax, black abdomen and white tails. Perhaps you’ve even had them nesting in a bird box in your garden. They usually have two generations each summer so if you see any flying this month they will likely be new queens, workers and males from the second 150-strong colony. The only difference in appearance between the queen, males and workers (known as the three castes) is their size. Queens are a larger 14-20mm, males 11-13mm and workers 13-15mm.
Common carder bees (Bombus pascuorum) live up to their common name at this time of year by being frequent garden visitors. Queens are now producing new queens, which are a noticeably bigger than the 11- 13mm workers. Both castes will be foraging, alongside males too. The castes all have the same ginger pile on their thorax, but the queens and males’ will be more striking as the workers’ colouring fades with age to a light brown. They are the smallest bumblebees flying in September.
Other bumblebees you’re likely to see this month are Buff-tailed bumblebees (Bombus terrestris). This month huge mated queens (18mm) are flying, as well as workers and males. In the south these queens are stocking up on nectar and looking for a suitable nesting site to raise a new colony during the mild winter. Further north, the queens are stocking up on nectar and looking for a suitable place to overwinter.

How to ID September solitary bees:

Pantaloon bee (Dasypoda hirtipes) – I always associate this sand-loving mining bee (13mm in length) with beaches but she is just as happy on sandy brownfield sites mainly in southern England and Wales. Her nest can be distinguished from other burrowing bees by the large fan of sandy spoil she leaves to one of side of the hole. You can see how she makes her nest in this great video. The males don’t sport the over-sized pollen brushes ‘pantaloons’ on their hind legs, but still have long fair hairs.
Ivy bee (Colletes hederae) – one of the highlights of autumn is being able to spot an ivy mining bee. To the untrained eye, they can look deceptively like a honeybee, especially as they are both found en masse buzzing around nectar-rich ivy flowers. However, look closely and you’ll see the ivy bee has more hair on its thorax and its abdomen has much more defined and shiny segmented bands in buff and brown alternate colours. The males, which are out a couple of weeks before the females, sport a brown quiff, are a little smaller (8-9mm) than honeybees (10mm), and have long antennae. Despite their name, Ivy bees can gather nectar from a variety of late flowers before the ivy flowers, but the easiest way to spot them is to inspect the tiny white ivy flowers. Ivy bees belongs to the Colletes family, which mine into the ground to make their nests – often next door to each other in very large numbers – and they line their nest with a cellophane-like waterproof and fungus-resistant substance, which is why Colletes are also called plasterer bees. If you have a south-facing slope with light soil you may see hundreds, even thousands, of these bees emerging from their individual nests. It is easy to forget that they are solitary bees, as you can see on this great video from the Hampshire & Isle of Wight Wildlife Trust.

Fascinating fact – the Ivy bee was only described as a separate species in 1993 and wasn’t discovered in the UK until 2001 in Dorset. Now it has spread throughout the country as far as Scotland.

Common furrow bee (Lasioglossum calceatum) – these small solitary bees (8-10mm) with an elongated black, shiny, banded abdomen have been flying since early spring. The easiest way to ID them is to observe them on daisies, like Erigeron karvinskianus, and in Geranium flowers. The ones you will be seeing now are males and females that were born in July and can fly until October. They makes nests in the ground.

Green furrow bee (Lasioglossum morio) – an even smaller (4-5mm), black solitary bee, this one has a green metallic hue that you can see in the sun. They are widespread but tricky to see as they are tiny. However, we’ve found them a number of times eight floors up on London rooftops foraging on hebes and a wildflower called Hoary willowherb (Epilobium parviflorum), or sunning themselves on paving stones.

Fascinating fact: Both of these burrowing, furrow bees can display primitively eusocial behaviour, which means the early flying females in warm climates are actually queen bees that in early summer produce workers. These worker bees will collect nectar and pollen for the new females and males that are born later in the summer.

Large-headed resin bees (Heriades truncorum) – another small (8mm), black, robust bee often seen at this time of year in the south of England on yellow composite flowers like sunflowers. The easiest way to distinguish it from other small, black bees is that it carries pollen on the underside of its abdomen (like a leafcutter). And the female makes her nest in a pre-existing cavity in wood. After she has laid her eggs in the cavity, she plugs it with tiny bits of grit and stone that she collects and then glues it all together with resin collected from nearby trees. You can help this bee by drilling holes into wooden logs and attaching them to a wall. See how to make a nest for this bee.

Fascinating fact: She is found in Europe and the east coast of the United States and is thought to have possibly been introduced in the UK by Victorians in imported wood.

Another solitary bee you may still see this month is the tiny Common yellow-faced bee (Hylaeus communis) – these small (5-7mm) predominately black bees with tiny yellow eye spots (female) or a triangle (male) on their face has been a familiar sight in gardens since midsummer. I’ve seen them on tall Fennel plants. They plaster their nests, but unlike other bees they collect pollen in a special stomach, called a crop, and regurgitate it to make a semi-liquid mixed with pollen to feed the larvae.

Fascinating fact: They have been observed blowing bubbles of nectar to evaporate the water. This is known as water homeostasis and it concentrates and thickens the nectar/pollen mixture making it tacky like honey. The bee’s eggs and larvae ‘stick’ to its surface, unlike many other solitary bee larvae which ‘sit’ on top of the more solid pollen mixture. (Thanks to Nurturing Nature for the info and footage).

How to help bees in September

Plant flowers that bloom this month to provide important late sources of nectar and pollen. Sedum, Michaelmas daisy, dahlia, fuchsia, Devil’s bit scabious, Coreopsis (Tickseed) Perovskia Blue Spire, commonly known as Russian sage, and wild marjoram (Origanum) are all good, and don’t forget Common sneezeweed (Helenium autumnale), the solitary bees favourite, according to Rosybee nursery’s fantastically helpful research . A particular fav in our garden was Helianthus ‘Lemon Queen’ a slug-proof sunflower, and of course, the Geranium Rozanne is still going strong! For the long-tongued bumblebees, black horehound, salvias, and buddleia are still flowering.
The best late forage for short-tongued Ivy bees (and honeybees) without a doubt is ivy. But ivy only flowers when it is mature and that can take 11 years! So if you have any sprawling ivy that needs a trim, please don’t cut it back until after it’s flowered this month.
If you only have a window box, Mexican fleabane (Erigeron karvinskianus), trailing nasturtium and Bird’s-foot trefoil are still flowering. Add sedum and annuals such as cosmos and snap dragons. If you grow herbs in pots and window boxes, let the mint and oregano keep flowering.
Gather seeds Store them in labelled paper bags in a cool, dry place for sowing or scattering next spring. Or, just scatter them around your garden now while the soil is still warm. Lightly rake the soil, scatter the seeds, cover them with fine soil and firm down.
Leave parts of the garden undisturbed, as ground nesting bumblebee queens may be looking for a snug place to overwinter – and don’t chop down dead stems that solitary bees may have laid eggs in.
Boost your wildflower meadow . If you haven’t already done your summer cut, do it now, scarify the cut meadow to expose bare soil where seeds can grown, then add yellow rattle seeds to suppress grasses taking over next year. Finally, add perennial plug plants of wild flowers that will grow well in the soil to feed bees in the future.
Ditch the weed killers and pesticides.
Take semi-ripe cuttings if you are patient and want to propagate heathers, ivy, Mahonia, Escallonia, flowering-currents, verbena, penstemon and salvias. The cuttings should be ready to pot on next spring.
Create a bank of sand mixed with some clay soil against a south facing wall, or a free-standing mound, for mining bees which like to burrow into sand. It needs to be about 400mm deep. Create steps in the sand as some bees like to nest vertically and others horizontally. The clay will help the bank to keeps its shape after the bees have tunnelled into it. If you’re lucky you may get ivy mining bees nesting in it this autumn next door to each other in large neighbourhoods.
Drill holes in blocks of wood – 10mm, 8mm, 6mm and 4mm diameters and up to 30 cm deep (although some bees only need a depth of a few centimetres to nest in) – and screw them to a sturdy support. Drill holes in existing structures such as fence posts, or dead trees. Large-headed resin bees, Scissor bees and Yellow-faced bees may take up residence, but probably not until next year.
Keep a look out for yellow-legged Asian hornets on ivy bushes. They could have a severe impact on our wild bee populations. 342 credible sightings had been made by the end of August 2025 – a sevenfold increase on 2024 – of which only 37 had been laboratory confirmed by the end of July (compared to 20 at the same point in 2024) . Most sightings were in Kent, but this year, one was much further north in Oswestry, Shropshire. Report any sightings using the Asian Hornet Watch App.

Regent’s Park bee safari – July 2025

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Early bumblebee (Bombus pratorum), Photo credit: Jonathan Goldberg

On a late morning bee safari in Regent’s Park, the dull overcast skies were threatening rain. I didn’t have great hopes for showing the Lord Mayor of Westminster many different bee species on our tour of the dry garden, the late-flowering perennial borders and the allotment. The highlight of the tour was this lovely orange-bottomed Early bumblebee (above) foraging on late summer alliums.

Buff-tailed bumblebees (Bombus terrestris) Photo credit: Jonathan Goldberg

I did expect to see our most ubiquitous bee, the Buff-tailed bumblebees (Bombus terrestris). They were out in force on any lavender still in flower.

Honeybee (Apis mellifera) Photo credit: Jonathan Goldberg

Not surprisingly, honeybees were all over saucer-shaped flowers, like these Nasturtium, in the park’s allotment where we ended our safari.

We did see some Common carder bees (Bombus pascuorum) – some with a very gingery thorax, and some a much paler colour as they’d been bleached by the sun. They dart around so quickly we didn’t get a good photo of them in the park, but later that week I got this shot of one on a hebe. I have cropped the photo for a close up of the bee.

And tiny, black furrow bees were out too. Again, I didn’t get a photo at the time as I was too busy showing the Lord Mayor, but later that week I found one on a Rudbeckia and managed to take this shot.

August bees

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The late summer flying bees vary hugely in size, colour and shape, from the round, fluffy bumblebees to the medium-sized, striped plasterer bee, parasitic blood bee with a red abdomen, the mining bee with yellow legs and the pantaloon bee with massive pollen brushes on its hind legs . And the tiny black Yellow-face bees and Small scissor bees are still around.

You may also notice that some of the bumblebees just got a lot larger again, like the size they were in the spring. That’s because a new generations of queen bumblebees are flying. If there are new queens, there will be male bumblebees too. The males have yellow, fluffy faces. Males and these new, virgin queens from nearby nests will mate and then she will be looking for somewhere safe to hunker down for the next few months until next spring when they will emerge to make a new nest and create their own colony.

Tips for IDing August bumblebees:

Early bumblebees (Bombus pratorum) – so called because the colony produces new queen bees as early as May when other bumblebees colonies are still busy producing workers. This month a second generation of queens (13mm) could be flying along with smaller (10mm) workers and the pretty males, which have a more fluffy, yellow thorax. Don’t confuse these small males with the larger males of red-tailed bumblebees. The latter has a much bigger, fire-engine red bottom and is larger in size too. The easiest way to tell this bumblebee from all the others is by their diminutive size and their little orangey-red bottom.
White-tailed bumblebee (Bombus lucorum) males – if you’re lucky you may see these bright yellow banded fluffy bumblebees flying now. They are easy to distinguish from queens and workers by their much yellower thorax. At the end of the summer bumblebee queens produce males and new queens who will leave the nest and mate.

You will also see small, gingery-brown Common carder bees (Bombus pascuorum) in parks and gardens this month. And if you are lucky, Red-tailed bumblebees, Tree bumblebees and Garden bumblebees . All the castes could be out – the large queens, and smaller workers and the yellow-face males.

And a new generation of cuckoo bumblebees may also be flying, such as the Field cuckoo bee (Bombus campestris), which lays its eggs in Common carder bees’ nests. Here’s a guide to the six cuckoo bumblebees in the UK. ID tip: They have darker wings than nest-making bumblebees and no pollen baskets because their host’s worker bees collect the pollen to feed the cuckoo bees’ females and males.

How to ID August solitary bees:

Blood bees (Sphecodes) can often be found where Furrow bees and some mining bees are nesting as they invade their nests. There are several hundred species of these parasitic bees globally and around 17 in the British Isles. They range in size from 4mm to 8mm, but can be identified from other black, hairless bees by their red abdomen which looks as if it is full of blood. Telling one blood bee species from another can be very challenging, despite possessing some of the best descriptive common names such as swollen-thighed, bare-saddled and dull-headed blood bee. If you see one on heathland or coastal dunes, chances are it could be the Sandpit blood bee (Sphecodes pellucidus) . What do parasitic bees do? They are cleptoparasites, which means the female enters a host’s nest, opens up a cell and destroys the egg, or larvae, and replaces it with her own egg before resealing it. Females are usually found around the nests of the host, while males often hang out on a variety of daisy-like flowers and umbellifers. Tip: Don’t kill these bees to save the furrow and mining bees. Nature works in mysterious ways and we must respect that.
Small scissor bees (Chelostoma campanularum) – despite being the UK’s smaller bee they were easy to spot because the 4.5mm-long males shelter in the middle of bellflowers (Campanula in Latin) during dull weather and/or at night. Now most of the bellflowers have gone, look in Hardy geraniums like Geranium ‘Rozanne’ instead. A cavity nesting bee, they use small pre-existing holes in dead wood, including fence posts, and they plug the holes with small particles including sand grains and grit, like Resin bees.
Yellow-face bees (Hylaeus) are one of many small, (5mm) predominately black bees which frequent gardens from mid to late summer. Yellow-face bees have tiny yellow spots (female) or a triangle (male) on their face, and yellow on their legs. They nest in a variety of small cavities including hollow stems and manmade bee hotels if the dimensions are small enough. They line the cells of their nest with waterproof, anti-fungal resin applied with their tongue, which explains why Yellow-face bees are classified in the same family as Plasterer bees (Colletes). ID Tip: You won’t see pollen on their hind legs or under their tummy, because, unusually for a bee, they carry pollen back to the nest in a special stomach, called a crop and regurgitate it to make a semi-liquid mixed with nectar to feed their brood (larvae).
Yellow-legged mining bee (Andrena flavipes) – are bivoltine, which means they have two generations a year. The first appears in spring and flies from March to June, and a second one from June to September, so you are seeing the second generation now. They are common in southern England and could be mistaken for honeybees, but are a bit smaller, a bit hairier, and more grey coloured. And they have pollen brushes (scopa) along their yellow back legs to collect pollen, rather than scraping blobs of pollen into pollen baskets which honeybees do. They nest in large aggregations in south-facing slopes and short turf including mown lawns.
Four-banded flower bee (Anthophora quadrimaculata) – these small zippy banded bees with big eyes (the males are green-eyed) are fading to grey now. Look out for them darting rapidly between flowers on catmints, lavenders, Black horehound and dead-nettles, emitting a high-pitched buzz. You have most chance of spotting this bee in Greater London and the Thames Gateway than anywhere else in the UK.
Pantaloon bee (Dasypoda hirtipes) is a medium-sized fluffy bee easily identified by the female’s oversized orange pollen brushes, or ‘pantaloons’ on her hind legs, and her nesting behaviour. She excavates a burrow in sandy banks, coastal footpaths, and even on brownfield sites and leaves a large fan of sandy spoil to one side of the hole. Most likely to be seen in heathland and coastal sand dunes of south east England, Dorset, Cornwall, Norfolk and Wales. It’s one of my favourite holiday pastimes, if I’m on a beach to try to spot the spoil and then waiting to see the bee in action.
Davies’ plasterer bee (Colletes daviesanus) is smaller than a honeybee with a furry thorax and a shiny abdomen with very defined grey-white stripes. There are 500 known species of plasterers – also called Colletes bees – worldwide, but only nine species in Britain. This is the main one you’ll see in your garden on any daisy-like flower and nesting in weathered sandstone walls, soft mortar or in south-facing slopes of bare soil in large aggregations with other bees of the same species. They are called plasterer bees because they plaster the cells of the nests with a cellophane-like resin substance they produce which is both waterproof and fungus-resistant.

You may also still see leafcutter bees and small, black furrow bees foraging in parks and gardens throughout the UK at this time of year.

How to help bees in August:

Plant different flowers for different bees. Hollyhocks, sunflowers, globe thistles and cardoons are all magnets at this time of year for short-tongued bees, along with open-faced dahlias. For the long-tongued bumblebees, Black horehound, Salvias, Germanders (Tuecrium) and buddleia are still flowering. And Geranium ‘Rozanne’ and Calamint are still going strong. Common sneezeweed (Helenium autumnale) is starting to produce coppery blooms which are a top attraction for solitary bees according to Rosybee nursery’s fantastically helpful research . Marjoram (Origanum), Anise hyssop, thyme and Bergamot, are all later-flowering herbs that do well in pots in a sunny position.
If you only have a window box, Mexican fleabane (Erigeron karvinskianus), creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum), trailing nasturtium and Bird’s-foot trefoil are still flowering. Add sedum for late flowers and annuals such as cosmos and snap dragons.
If you let your lawn grow into a wildflower meadow this year, now is a good time to do what’s called the ‘haycut’. Cut to 4cm with a mower, or better still use a scythe or shears. Leave the cuttings for a few days to let seeds drop to the surface of the soil, then rake the cuttings up to reduce soil fertility and encourage more wildflowers next year.
Gather seeds from plants such as poppies, love-in-a-mist, bellflowers and foxgloves. Store them in labelled paper bags in a cool, dry place for sowing or scattering next spring. Or, just scatter them around your garden now and hope for the best.
Leave parts of the garden undisturbed, as a new generation of ground-nesting bumblebee queens may be looking for a snug place to spend the winter.
Ditch the weed killers and pesticides.
You can put up bee hotels now, but you probably won’t get any visitors until next spring. If you want to see what is happening inside a bee hotel, you could invest in an observation box with a Perspex viewing window. But again, wait until next spring to put it up.
It’s still not too late to drill holes in blocks of wood – 10mm, 8mm, 6mm and 4mm diameters and up to 30 cm deep (although some bees only need a depth of a few centimetres to nest in) – and screw them to a sturdy support. Drill tiny holes in existing structures such as fence posts, or dead trees. Small scissor bees, yellow-face bees or resin bees may take up residence.
Create a bank of sand mixed with some clay soil against a south facing wall for mining bees which like to burrow into sand. Create steps in the sand as some bees like to nest vertically and others horizontally. The clay will help the bank to keeps its shape after the bees have tunnelled into it. You may find Ivy bees (Colletes hederae) nesting in it next month.
Provide a source of water for thirsty honeybees. This can be a shallow bowl or saucer with stones or pebbles in that the bees can stand on while they are drinking. Bees can’t swim!

Bow Bells House – summer 2025

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The roof has never looked better, never contained as much diverse planting, and never fed as many bees – showing what other companies could achieve if they handed their rooftops over to a bee-friendly gardener to work with nature to create a pollinator oasis.

Much of the success this summer is down to:

a comprehensive drip irrigation system that comes on every evening for an hour during the heatwave we’ve been having since mid June.
allowing self-seeded flowers (weeds) like Great Willowherb (Epilobium hirsutum), Ragwort (Senecio jacobaea), Hawkbit (Leontodon hispidus), Herb Robert (Geranium robertianum) and thistles to flower freely. I do draw the line at Fleabane as it completely dominates, and only honeybees seems to like it
flowers I planted self-seeding such as the tall, yellow flowered Mullen (Verbascum thapsus)
flowers I’ve experimented with doing well such as Comfrey
reducing the number of Kniphofia (Red hot pokers) and keeping a check on the seedlings (again only honeybees seem to forage on them)
having a pollinator ecologist survey the rooftop in spring/summer to record the species and the plants for Pollinating London Together.

Furrow bee on Hawkbit Great Willowherb (Epilobium hirsutum) Ragwort (Senecio jacobaea)

Calamint Centaura montana Dr Konstantinos Tsliosis surveying

July bees

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Bee spotting gets a bit trickier this month, with lots of diminutive solitary bees flying including our tichiest UK bee, the Small scissor bee measuring around 4.5mm and the not much larger Common-yellow face bee. Both these tiny black bees, don’t conform to most people’s image of a bee. Luckily, larger Patchwork leafcutter bees and chunky Wool carder bees are fluffier and much easier to spot. And if you’re in the south of England, look out for the very nippy, 8mm Four-banded flower bee. If you have a bee hotel installed and see a bee with a long, pointed black-and-white tail hanging out around it, it’s likely to be a Large sharp-tail bee – the cuckoo of both leafcutters and flower bees at this time of year.

Get out early to see bumblebees foraging before if heats up.

Tips for IDing July bumblebees:

The Common carder bee (Bombus pascuorum) is one of the most ubiquitous bees in my garden. With her all-in-one fluffy brown coat, she’s also one of the cutest and easiest to identify foraging on a huge variety of common garden flowers with her medium-length proboscis (tongue). She had a bad time last year with the wet spring. This summer she will likely be foraging early when it’s not so hot.

You will also continue to see workers of some of our commonest bumblebee flying this month including Buff-tailed bumblebees and their cuckoo the Vestal cuckoo bee; Tree bumblebees, Garden bumblebees and Red-tailed bumblebees . Here’s a guide the six most common bumblebee cuckoos.

How to ID July solitary bees:

Large sharp-tail bee (Coelioxys conoidea) is a very distinctive bee with its very pointed wasp-like abdomen and black and white colouring. The best way to spot them is around bee hotels as they are cuckoo bees of leafcutter bees who may be nesting there. They use the pointed abdomen to make a slit in the partition of the host’s cell and place their egg inside. Their larvae have long curved jaws to kill the host’s egg or its larvae. Then they gobble up all the pollen in the host’s nest and develop into adult bees to emerge next summer. Don’t try and kill them to protect the host. This is nature and the appearance of a cuckoo bee is a sign of a healthy host population. There are seven species of sharp-tail bee in the UK. Many are rare. They can also take over summer Flower bee nests. TOP TIP FOR CUCKOO BEES: They never collect pollen.
The Four-banded flower bee (Anthophora quadrimaculata) is much smaller than the earlier flying Hairy-footed flower bee. They display the same darting movement and high pitched buzz, but being just 7-8mm are much more difficult to spot as they zip around. The males have big, green eyes – like the similar-sized Green-eyed flower bee (Anthophora bimaculata) – and they both noisily patrol patches of flowers and are polylectic – feeding on many garden flowers including catmints and lavender, and wild flowers like Black Horehound and dead-nettles. Both species seem to be confined to the South of England.
Patchwork leafcutter bee (Megachile centuncularis) is one of our most common leafcutter bees. They get their name, like many solitary bees, from how they construct their nests. The leafcutters cut pieces of leaf from plants, including roses, lilac, crab apple and amelanchier to line their nests. A bit smaller and squarer-shaped than a honeybee, leafcutters are brownish grey and the easiest way to identify them is that they collect pollen on the underside of their tummy in orange-coloured pollen brushes. As they have a habit of lifting up their abdomen in the air while feeding on flowers, this orange underside is clearly visible. They will nest in bee hotels alongside red mason bees, if the tube diameter is wide enough, plugging the entrance of the tubes with leaf. Look out for a female flying with a piece of leaf as big as herself clasped between her legs. Like this fantastic footage captured by Devon-based field naturalist, John Walter.
The Wool carder bee (Anthidium manicatum) is easy to see with its yellow spots along the side of its chunky body. If you have a patch of Lamb’s Ear (Stachys byzantina), you may have seen the females visiting already to collect the soft downy material from the underside of the leaves to line their nests. They roll the hairs into a ball as big as themselves to carry home to their nest in a ready-made cavity (maybe your bee hotel). Here she makes a hole in the middle of the ball, where she places the pollen and lays her egg on top. Unusually for bees, the males are larger. They aggressively defend their patch of purple flowers by attacking intruders in mid-air, armed with spikes under their abdomen. I’ve also seen females using their long tongues to feed on foxgloves in my garden and Black horehound along the canal.
NOTE: Carder means to ‘tease out fibres’. Despite having a similar English name to the social bumblebee called a Common carder bee (Bombus pascuorum), a Wool Carder Bee is not a bumblebee, it is a solitary bee nesting alone.
Common yellow-face bee (Hylaeus communis) is one of a dozen small, (5mm) bees which are predominately black, but this species has yellow spots (the females), or triangles like a yellow mask (the males) on their face. The common variety is the one you are most likely to see in your garden because it’s not fussy about where it nests – in a variety of small cavities including manmade bee hotels if the dimensions of the tube are small enough – and it feeds on many widespread flowers. Unusually for a bee, it carries pollen back to its nest in a special stomach, called a crop, rather than on its body. If you have an observation bee box, with removal panels – so you can see what is happening in the cells the bees are creating – you will see this bee creating a waterproof cellophane-like ‘plastic bag’ around each egg and filling the bag with nectar and pollen.
Small scissor bee (Chelostoma campanularum) is the smallest bee in Britain. Measuring around 4.5mm, they can easily be mistaken for a tiny, black fly or ant, or a black furrow bee. The clue to which bee you are looking at is in their Latin name – campanula is the Latin for bellflowers or harebells. They frequent these flowers, and males can be found sheltering in the middle during dull weather and/or at night. Another cavity nester, they use tiny pre-existing holes in dead wood including fence posts and plug the holes with small particles like sand grains and pebbles. Like many solitary bees, they often nest next door to each other. ID tip: Another bee you may find sleeping in your bellflowers is the slightly bigger, browner and fluffier, Gold-tailed Melitta bee (Melitta haemorrhoidalis).

Bee mimics: There are some interesting flying insects this month trying to look like bees to deter predators, and confusing some of us bee spotters. But look out for the giveaway signs – big eyes, spindly legs and the lack of pollen on their back legs, or under their abdomen.

Narcissus fly (Merodon equestris) – these fluffy hoverflies could easily be mistaken for a Common carder bee, expect for the big eyes, spindly legs and lack of pollen. It gets it name because it lays its eggs on daffodil bulbs. The larvae feed on the bulb during winter and in spring pupate in to the soil emerging in the spring. And they are still around in July.
Bee wolf (Philanthus triangulum) – this is a large, solitary wasp that nests in sandy soil (they often live in sand mounds where mining bees nest) and it preys on honeybees, paralysing them with a sting and carrying them back to their burrow. Up to six paralysed honey bees are placed in each brood chamber, then a single egg is laid on one of the bees and the chamber is sealed with sand. After hatching, the larva feeds on the cache of honey bees before spinning a cocoon to hibernate through winter, ready to emerge in spring.

How to help bees in July:

Plant different flowers for different bees. Lots of bee-friendly flowers are blooming this month including salvias, knapweeds (Centaurea nigra) and lavenders. However some lavenders are better than others for attracting bees. Lavadula x intermedia ‘Gros Bleu’ performed best in trials at Sussex University, whereas Lavendula angustifolia is less attractive. Lavenders are good for short-tongued bees, as are herbs including Marjoram (Origanum), Anise hyssop, thyme and borage. For long-tongued bees plant Bergamot, (bee balm), Viper’s bugloss, Lamb’s Ear, salvias and shrubs like buddleia, also loved by butterflies, hence it’s common name, the butterfly bush. Many of these plants grow well in pots and planters on a sheltered patio or roof terrace in well-drained soil and they are fairly drought-tolerant. This month, I’ve already seen tiny Yellow-faced bees (Hylaeus) foraging on Fennell and Hebes, and lots of bee species on flowering thyme.
If you only have a window box, Scabious japonica, dwarf harebells (campanula carpatica), dwarf lavenders, Mexican fleabane (Erigeron karvinskianus) and creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum) will look good now and feed the bees if you keep watering regularly. You could also add some trailing nasturtium and Bird’s-foot trefoil.
Water your plants every morning or early morning during a heatwave, otherwise the plants may conserve their nectar and won’t provide an energy drink for bees and other pollinators.
Continue to let part of the the lawn grow long (after No Mow May) for dandelions and clovers.
Ditch the weed killers and pesticides. That includes spraying your roses – remember the leafcutter bees collect pieces of leaf to make their nests.
It’s your last chance to put up bee hotels for leafcutter bees. We have created flat-pack bee hotels that can be easily assembled and come with instructions about where to put them and how to attract bees to nest in them by planting their favourite flowers.
Drill holes in blocks of wood – 10mm, 8mm, 6mm and 4mm diameters and up to 30 cm deep – and screw them to a sturdy support. Drill holes in existing structures such as fence posts, or dead trees. See if small scissor bees or yellow-faced bees take up residence.
Create a sand bank against a south facing wall for mining bees that like to burrow into sand. The sand has to hold together, so try mixing builders sand with some clay soil or loam.
Provide a source of water for thirsty honeybees. This can be a shallow bowl or saucer with stones or pebbles in that the bees can stand on while they are drinking. Bees can’t swim!
Buy a Field Guide to the Bees of Great Britain and Ireland if you are serious about IDing lots more bees.
Start growing seeds, such as forget-me-nots, that will flower next year.

Urban Bees and PWC

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Urban Bees is in the fifth year of its partnership with auditor’s Price Waterhouse Coopers. Here’s a timeline showing the progress that’s been made to help wild bees at the company’s offices and by staff too:

2022: Better planting for bees

PWC’s London gardener, who we work with at Weil law firm, asked us how to make the terraces and roofs at PCW’s two London offices better for bees and other pollinators. As a result, he planted more fruit trees and early and late flowering perennials, shrubs and herbs at the Embankment office terraces.

2023: Bee safaris at Embankment office

We gave a series of talks to staff about different bees and their importance and how we can help them. We ran our first bee safari on August 3 and saw honeybees (other companies have hives nearby, so they forage on the PWC terraces), a Buff-tailed bumblebee (Bombus terrestris) and a Common carder bee (Bombus pascuroum). Lavender proved the biggest hit with the bees. The second bee safari took place during a September heatwave. The lavender had gone, so the bees were on a mixture of Catmint (Nepeta), a shrub called Bluebeard or Caryopteris x clandonensis and Anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum). We didn’t see much variety of bees – just the same as last month.

Comments from staff:

“Loved the bee safari. I never knew there was more than one type of bee and that only one makes honey.”

“Can’t wait to start planting some of these flowers in my garden and see which bees arrive.”

“What a great way to spend my lunch hour. I’ve learned so many new things.”

“Looking forward to seeing different bees next spring.”

“My daughter is going to love this bee guide. Maybe they can do something similar at her school.”

2024: Bee hotels and boxes installed and workshops

Installed bee hotels for cavity-nesting bees and a bee observation box at EP so staff can see the life cycle of a Red mason bee nesting in the box – Red mason bees nested in the hotels and observation boxes on 8th and 3rd floor terraces.
Installed a bee sand planter for ground-nesting mining bees – no evidence it is being used.
Put up signs about the different bees staff may see visiting the terraces
Ran summer bee safaris and bee hotel workshops for London staff
Visited regional offices (Birmingham, Bristol and Manchester) to run bee hotel workshops where in total 90 staff assemble flat-pack wooden bee hotels to take home and learned about bees and how to help them
Advised contractors how to make terraces and rooftops in regional offices better for bees and biodiversity.

2025: More safaris and regional workshops

Presented an introduction to bees webinar for World Bee Day, May 20
Delivered bee hotel workshops in Birmingham (pictured above), Leeds, Manchester and Bristol
Following our report to contractors, planting has been improved on the Manchester terraces where we ran bee hotel workshop in July.
Bee safaris on the terraces at the EP offices

More London

In November 2025, at More London, Level 3 Terrace, we installed bee hotels and put up a post for an observation box to install in spring 2026 in the knowlege that there is now enough forage for the bees to feed on in spring. On Level 3 and Level 1, we also attached bird boxes to silver birch trees for birds to nest in, but they may also be used by Tree bumblebees once the chicks have fledged.

2026

Bee safaris at More London and EP to learn to ID different bees and to see the life cycle of the bees in the bee observation box
Bee hotel workshops in Glasgow, Belfast, Leeds, Manchester, Birmingham, London.
Improve spring forage at regional offices
Work with gardener, Matt, to improve native planting on terraces at EP following biodiversity report.

Making a small sand mound for mining bees to nest in

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Step by step guide

1. Find a sunny, warm area 1m2 and clear it of vegetation.
2. Lay a base of gravel for good drainage
3. Bees prefer loamy soil, but if you don’t have any try to replicate loamy soil by mixing one bag of builders’ sand with 2 bags of top soil to get a good consistency that binds together.
4. Add it little by little on top of the gravel, layer by layer, patting it down as you go.
5. Keep going until you have a 400mm high mound.

6. Add some large stones/pebbles to the base as some bees may bask on them to warm up, or they may shelter underneath or behind on windy days, or make their holes in between the stones.
7. Monitor to see if any holes are made and who may be nesting in your sand mound.

Thanks to Dr Konstantinos Tsiolis, whose PhD was on nesting sites for mining bees, for his advice and help with this project.

Summer bees 2025

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This month, we have to say goodbye to some of my favourite spring-flying solitary bees, like the Hairy-footed flower bees and the Red mason bees, as their short life-cycles come to end. But we can say hello to some summer beauties, like the Wool carder bee and the leafcutter bees. You’ll hopefully see three more bumblebee species too and a cuckoo bumblebee, (There will also be plenty of buff-tailed and white-tailed bumblebee workers foraging, and smaller, brown common carder bees, but we haven’t included them in the June guide as we wanted to introduce you to some new faces). There are four new solitary bees to try to identify this month: a lovely mason bee, a small, zippy flower bee with huge green eyes, and we’ll see for the first time this year, leafcutter bees. And see if you can spot the difference between a bumblebee and a hoverfly that mimics a bumblebee.

Tips for IDing June bumblebees:

Early bumblebee (Bombus pratorum) – if you see a small bumblebee (9 -13mm) with a faint red bottom and yellow stripes, it’s an early bumblebee. The male (pictured above) is particularly striking with his bright-yellow fluffy facial hairs and a stripe on his body too. This month, new queens may be emerging, along with workers and the males. Look out for them on cotoneasters, brambles, Raspberry and Crane’s-bill (hardy geraniums). They can also nectar rob from longer, tubular flowers. They have small colonies of up to 100 bees and generally nest underground in old rodent burrows like many bumblebee species, but they can also inhabit bird boxes (like Tree bumblebees (Bombus hypnourm) and nest in roof spaces and holes in trees, although I have yet to hear reports of this.
Garden bumblebee (Bombus hortorum) – sit by a patch of flowering foxgloves or honeysuckle and you will hopefully see this long-tongue bumblebee coming in and out of the flowers. The way to tell the Garden bumblebee from Buff-tailed and White-tailed bumblebees is by looking at the two golden bands at the front and back of the thorax which makes the bee look as if it’s wearing a black skull cap. It has a third band on the abdomen. It also has a longer ‘horsey’ face than other bumblebees, and will be going into the flower rather than sucking up the nectar from the side. Many other large bumblebees with white tails have shorter tongues but nectar rob by making a hole in the base of the flower.
Red-tailed bumblebee (Bombus lapidarius) –unmissable with jet black bodies and fiery red tails, but records show that they too are becoming less widespread. I have read that they favour yellow flowers, so I am planting lots of Birds-foot trefoil for them, but so far no luck in my London garden. I have seen them on a rooftop on a tiny yellow sedum’s flowers and collecting pollen from the pink-petaled seaside daisy (Erigeron glaucus). I’d also suggest looking up at Laburnum trees drooping under the weight of yellow, pea-like flowers. This year I saw many foraging on purple salvia flowers in a garden in north Norfolk. In the photo above the female is putting up a leg as a warning signal that she feels threatened and to keep away. But these are gentle bees.
Vestal cuckoo bee (Bombus vestalis) – also called the Southern cuckoo bee because it is in this part of England where you are most likely to see the huge females (24mm) seeking to invade the underground nest of Buff-tailed bumblebees (Bombus terrestris) and lay their eggs. At this time of year only smaller Buff-tailed bumblebee workers are foraging. So if you see a huge bee that looks like a big Buff-tailed bumblebee queen, it’s more likely to be its cuckoo. Other ID tips: she has a longer white tail with yellow hairs at the base, and there are NO pollen baskets on her hind legs. (She is a female and not a queen because she doesn’t have worker bees. Her eggs hatch into females and males that are fed by the Buff-tailed bumblebees worker bees. These workers become the cuckoo bee’s slaves after she takes over their mother’s nest.) NOTE: There are 6 Cuckoo bumblebee species in the UK. This is the most common one because its host is the most common bumblebee.

How to ID June solitary bees:

Green-eyed flower bee (Anthophora bimaculata) – these gorgeous looking bees with their stunning big green eyes are around half the size (8mm) of the spring-flying Hairy-footed flower bees (Anthophora plumipes). Their diminutive size, along with their rapid darting movement between flowers, makes them much more difficult to spot and they are largely confined to southern England, especially coastal areas and heathland where they nest in large, noisy aggregations in sandy cliff tops and the edge of costal pathways. They feed on Vipers bugloss, Black horehound, brambles, Thyme and mints including Nepeta and other garden catmints. Listen out for the high-pitched buzz as they feed, often in groups. They fly until September, so one to watch out for if you’re holidaying on the South cost this summer.
The Orange-vented mason bee (Osmia leaiana) – has a fluffy orange pollen brush under her abdomen which she uses to collect pollen from a variety of flowers including Green Alkanet, Crane’s-bill (hardy geraniums), brambles and knapweeds. You may see her nesting in a bee hotel, or a bee observation box. Here is a video of her packing her nest with pollen (we mistakenly called her a Blue mason bee because they fly at similar times of the year and both use masticated leaf to plug the tubes of their nest).
Patchwork leafcutters (Megachile cenuncularis) are one of the most common leafcutter bees found in gardens. They get their name, like many solitary bees, from how they construct their nests. They cut pieces of leaf from many plants including rose and lilac bushes, honeysuckles, willowherbs, Amelanchier trees, birches and Horse chestnut to make their nests, leaving the leaves looking as if they has been attacked by a hole punch. This leafcutter bee is a little smaller (9-10mm) than a honeybee and a brownish grey colour. But the easier way to tell her apart from a honeybee is from the orange pollen brush on the whole underside of her tummy, (similar to the Orange-vented mason bee), which she has a habit of lifting up in the air while feeding on flowers. Favourites include thistles, knapweeds, burdock, Common Fleabane, Bird’s-foot trefoil, St John’s-wort and brambles. They nest in bee hotels if Red mason bees have left any tubes unoccupied. They plug the entrance with pieces of leaf later in the summer when they have laid all their eggs in a tube. If you’re very lucky, you may see a female flying with a piece of leaf as big as herself clasped between her legs. They can also nest in dead wood, cavities in walls and even occasionally in soil. TOP TIP: How to tell a Orange-vented mason bee from a leafcutter – with difficultly, but the mason bee is a fraction smaller (8mm), but has a bigger head and narrower body and uses chewed up leaf to construct her nest, rather than discs of leaves.
The Wool Carder Bee (Anthidium manicatum) is an easy bee to spot and therefore one of my favourites. It’s a chunky 16mm bee with yellow spots that looks like stitching along the side of its abdomen . And if you plant Lamb’s Ear (Stachys byzantina), you are guaranteed to see females collecting the soft downy material from the underside of the leaves to line and plug their nests. Carder means to ‘tease out fibres’, and the female rolls the hairs into a ball as big as herself to carry home to her nest which is in a ready-made hole in dead wood, cavities in wall and man-made objects. I’ve yet to see one. You may also see the larger male bees aggressively defending their patch of purple flowers for mating by attacking intruders mid air. They are armed with spikes under their abdomen that can kill their foes. As well as Lamb’s ear, these bees can often be seen feeding or mating around Black horehound, Purple toadflax and vetches. NOTE: Despite having a similar English name to the Common carder bee (Bombus pascuorum), they are very different. The latter is a social bumblebee.
Bumblebee hoverfly (Merodon equestris) – some hoverflies are excellent bumblebee mimics with their fluffy coats and round bodies. TOP TIP: The way to tell them apart from real bumblebees is the eyes (flies have bigger eyes), the legs (flies have spindly legs and they don’t collect pollen on their back legs), and they tend to stay still on a flower or leaf for longer than a bee with their wings out, rather than tucked behind them.

How to help bees in June:

Planting different flowers for different bees is particularly important this month when there can often be what’s called a June gap in the UK – a lull in nectar and pollen supplies as the horse chestnut trees finish flowering and trees, such as the limes, have yet to begin while spring flowers fade before summer ones burst into bloom. Try cotoneaster and thistles for short-tongued bees, and foxgloves, honeysuckle, comfrey and catmint for longer-tongued bees like the Green-eyed flower bee. Research by bee-friendly plant supplier, Rosybee found that in June the yellow flowers of Dyer’s chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria) were the best for all types of solitary bees, followed by purple Geranium rozanne ( a favourite in my small garden because it flowers until October). Biennial Viper’s bugloss (Echium vulgare) was best for bumblebees, as it produces nectar all day long, followed by catmint (Nepta racemosa – another long flowerer) and a white lavender (Lavandula x intermedia ‘Edelweiss’). Don’t forget Lamb’s Ear (Stachys byzantina) for the Wool carder bees.
If you only have a window box, try growing Scabious japonica, dwarf harebells (Campanula carpatica), dwarf lavenders, Mexican fleabane (Erigeron karvinskianus), seaside daisy (Erigeron glaucus), and creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum) which flower from June onwards. Water regularly.
Don’t pull up weeds like Alkanet, which feed many types of bees, and continue not to mow part of the lawn (after No Mow May comes Let it Bloom June ) to let clovers and knapweeds grow.
It’s not too late to install blue tit boxes – not for birds but for Tree bumblebees (Bombus hypnorum) and possibly Early bumblebees to nest in. They will vacate at the end of the summer, so you may get blue tits nesting next spring.
Put up bee hotels. It may be too late for Red mason bees, but Orange-vented mason bees, Blue mason bees and leafcutter bees may check-in and lay their eggs this summer. Leafcutter bees prefer slightly bigger diameter tubes of 9-10mm. The others 6-8mm. We have created flat-pack bee hotels that can be easily assembled and come with instructions about where to put them and how to attract bees to nest in them by planting their favourite flowers.
Create your own nests for cavity-nesting solitary bees, by drilling holes in blocks of wood – 10mm, 8mm, 6mm and 4mm diameters and up to 30 cm deep – and screw them to a sturdy support. Drill holes in existing structures such as fence posts, or dead trees. See which bees take up residence over the summer.
Continue to leave bare earth for mining bees to burrow into, or if you have space make a 1m 2 sand mound for mining bees to nest in. See here for a step by step guide.
Provide a source of water for thirsty honeybees. This can be a shallow bowl or saucer with stones or pebbles in that the bees can stand on while they are drinking. Bees can’t swim!
Ditch the weed killers and pesticides – that includes all bugsprays for your roses!
Buy a Field Guide to the Bees of Great Britain and Ireland if you are serious about IDing lots more bees.

Where have the spring-flying solitary bees gone? The Hairy-footed flower bees (Anthophora plumipes) are disappearing, along with Red mason bees (Osmia bicornis) and early mining bees. This is because adult solitary bees only live for a few weeks (6-8 weeks). And the spring flying solitary bees that came out in April or before have now reproduced and provisioned their nests with pollen, so their life cycle has come to an end. In their short life they mate and then the female makes, or finds and adapts a nest in which to lay her eggs. She forages for pollen to leave in the nest for the hungry larvae which will hatch from her eggs and gobble up all the pollen. But she will never see her offspring. When she has laid all her eggs and provisioned them with pollen, she will plug up the entrance to the nest, and exhausted from all her activities she will die on the wing. But in her short life she has done an extremely important job – pollinated many flowers, shrubs and trees whose fruits, seeds and nuts are food for birds and other species. Once the larvae have eaten all the pollen, they spin a cocoon, pupate and transform into adult bees through metamorphosis. They overwinter in the cocoon and will emerge next spring to start the life cycle again. The males of all solitary bee species emerge first to build up their strength for mating. In the case of the Red mason bees, they break though the mud at the end of the tubes in the bee hotels.

KCL – How to increase occupancy of bee nesting sites

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Bee hotel and observation box in Memorial Garden, Guy’s campus, KCL, April 2025 – not enough flowering ground cover or shrubs

Science gallery, Guy’s campus – there are some flowering plants, but there needs to be more spring-flowering ground cover, bulbs and perennials, and a crab apple in the large pot.

Guy’s campus – non occupied bee hotels

Denmark Hill campus – too much bare earth and evergreen shrubs, needs bee-friendly groundcover, perennials and bulbs and shrubs like Rosemary (May 2025)

Stamford Street courtyard – shrubs cut back too much so can’t flower. Need to be underplanted with groundcover flowering plants such as geranium. Too many evergreens. No flowers for bees or other pollinators.

Great Dover Street courtyard – too much bare ground, nothing flowering. (May 2025)

GDS – Scope to plant up all the tree pits with spring-flowering bee-friendly bulbs and flowers

GDS – scope to replace dead Portuguese laurel with bee-friendly, evergreen Sweet box flowering January – March

Honor Oak – Bee hotel and boxes not occupied. Not enough flowers and a bit too shady. Could move to a sunnier spot (below) where the box and hotels could face south east and flowers could be planted.

Bee hotels are also situated in a shady spot in Maughan Library (below). There are no options for moving them to a sunnier spot, or to improve the flowering plants.

Cavity-nesting solitary bees have 3 requirements for nesting

1. Sufficient nectar and pollen-rich flowers when they are flying and looking to provision a nest with pollen
2. Suitable nesting boxes such as wooden bee hotels filled with 15cm deep tubes made of bamboo or cardboard, or wooden bee observation boxes. These should ideally face south or east, be a metre off the ground, in a fixed spot and undisturbed
3. Nesting material with which to construct their nests, such as damp earth (Red mason bees), leaves from Rose bushes (leafcutter bees), fibres of Lamb’s ear (Wool carder bee).

To date only requirement 2 had been met in most cases, but there is much planting that can be done to provide a variety of bee food and nesting material.

Urban Bees Blog

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February flyers

New Year bees

Bees of 2025

Christmas gifts for bee lovers 2026

December bees – only two species to spot

Bird boxes for bees too!

Autumn planting for bees

Late autumn bees

Toronto bee trip

October 2025 bees and mimics

Bow Bells House Summer 2025 – lessons

Autumn bees

Regent’s Park bee safari – July 2025

August bees

Bow Bells House – summer 2025

July bees

Urban Bees and PWC

Making a small sand mound for mining bees to nest in

Summer bees 2025

KCL – How to increase occupancy of bee nesting sites